Un-freezing Locks & Winter Weather Tool Kit

Hello, again, Readers!

After my last post, several people I know through church gave me some really constructive feedback. They all were appreciative of the timely tips - and were surprised at how simple the tricks were to avoiding the problems we covered. But then they asked, "What about the locks?" Great question!

There are three tools you will need concerning iced-up/frozen locks: a lighter (cheap is ok), lock de-icer, and graphite lubricant (in dry powder or liquid spray can, e.g. 'Lock-Ease').

Lock already frozen? Then thaw it!

If your lock is frozen, pull out your lock de-icer chemical (it's literally about the size of a tube of lipstick) stick the tip into the key hole, and apply as directed on the package. It generally has some (isopropyl, I think) alcohol in it, which both melts the internal ice and evaporates to avoid more moisture sticking around to re-freeze.

Lock de-icer not handy? (Hmm, did you leave it *inside* the car when you parked?) Always keep a lighter on your person - yes, even if you're a non-smoker like I am - so you will always have a Plan B. Why? Well, there is this old trick of using the lighter to heat up the blade of the key, then sticking the warmed metal blade into the lock to melt the ice. There is an art to doing this, however, as great care must be taken with todays 'chipped' keys. It is far better to make several passes with a re-warmed key blade, than to over-heat the key, causing either the metal to become dis-formed or the computer chip in the key base to become overcooked.

Prevention Tool: Graphite lubricant 

As we discussed about door hinges in the last edition, the best way to prevent icy build-up of metal-on-metal components is through proper lubrication. Locks are a little trickier, because the metal pieces needing protection are the internal 'guts' of the tumbler. In this case, graphite lubricant is the wise choice.

Graphite lubricant comes in two forms: powder (in a tube similar in size/design to the lock de-icer, above) and spray (a small can, with a spray straw). Which one you choose to use is entirely a personal preference issue. On one hand, the powder is extremely portable, fitting easily into a snack-size zip-top baggie with the lock de-icer as a traveling partner. But, if you aren't confident about how much to use - or at least, in your ability to apply it correctly - you might prefer the spray can. With the spray, the graphite lube is mixed in with a proprietary oil base that allows the lube to go everywhere it needs to go. But after the carrying liquid evaporates, the lubricant sticks around as a thin film of protection from damaging moisture.

The Tool Kit:

Here is a quick kit you can throw together in minutes, and be winter weather ready at any time.

Small, basic ice scraper - most stores have these for about $1 right now
Graphite lubricant (powder and/or spray w/ straw)
Lock De-icer
Sil-Glyde
Small, basic lighter
Clean, dry rag (a retired wash cloth or dish/hand towel would work well)
Zip top baggies, in the following sizes: snack, quarts (x2) and gallon

In the snack baggie, store the lock de-icer, graphite (powder, if you chose this) and lighter.
In the 1st quart baggie, store the ice scraper and the rag. The rag is to help brush off snow before scraping, as well as wiping off the scraper before storing in the baggie.
In the 2nd quart baggie, place the Sil-Glyde.
In the gallon baggie, place the other two baggies for portable, waterproof storage of your kit.

NOTE: If you have the spray graphite lube, it will NOT fit in the snack baggie. In this case, put it into the 2nd quart baggie, next to the Sil-Glyde.

Your kit will now readily travel in a briefcase or (regular size) handbag/purse. Just be sure to always keep your kit with you, not with your auto. They are the tools you may need to gain access to your car at any time, so leaving them inside the car would not be wise.

That covers it for this edition. If there are any topics you'd like to see covered, please let me know. Just remember: You only need to take care of your vehicle, as well as you want it to take care of you.

PPM

How to Prevent 'Frozen Shut' Doors

Welcome back, Readers!

After my 'posting blitz' the week of Thanksgiving, I had to think carefully about what I would share with you next. Then a few flurries hit the Cincinnati-area, and several customers started complaining about stuck car doors (even though they were unlocked). Aha! I now had my inspiration for this next edition.

Even if you leave your vehicle's doors unlocked overnight - and I'm betting that you must *really* trust your neighborhood environment if you can do this without much concern - you may discover that you can't open the driver's door in the morning. Why? The common explanation is 'it's frozen shut'. Well, that's only half-way accurate. The door itself is not frozen, but there are two parts of it that may have icing-over issues: The hinge(s), and the seal/weatherstrip.

Here's a quick low-down on why this happens, and what you can to to prevent it.

Weatherstrip

The seals around your door (one on the door itself, one one the 'door frame') are made of rubber, right? Think of all the weather conditions they face (hottest summer heat to coldest winter temp's, plus all the rain/snow/sun). Anything made of rubber will eventually dry out, just like your skin will. Dried-out rubber no longer seals correctly, and when it gets any moisture on it, the rubber will cling onto it instead of repel it. Hey, it craves moisture! Rain/snow that is caught between the two rubber seals will create an 'ice sandwich' with them overnight, which is why you fight to open the door in the morning.

How do you prevent this? Go to your friendly neighborhood parts store (or hardware store) and get a small tube of Sil-Glyd - a 4 or 8 oz tube (like a toothpaste tube) will be good for now. Sil-Glyd is a silicone lubricant, meant especially for use on rubber pieces like weatherstripping. You can apply it by hand, put it at least on both parts of the driver's door weatherstripping, and don't be afraid to be generous. You can always wipe off any excess and use that on the next door you choose to treat. You may want to reapply the Sil-Glyd during winter, if additional coats seam to be warranted. (Winter can be more brutal in some locales than others, so use your own judgement on how often to reapply.)

NOTE: Be sure to use a clean, dry rag to wipe any moisture off the door seals first, so the lubricant has a better chance to penetrate.

Hinges


Door hinges are just as exposed to the elements as the door seals, so they are also likely to misbehave. But, hinges - and the 'pins' or bolts that are the working pivot-point on them - are made of metal, not rubber. So, a different lubricant is needed for them.

The problem solver this time: sprayable white lithium grease (or W.L.G.). It comes in both a tube (like the Sil-Glyd) and the can, but you definitely want the can. Trust me!

You may be familiar with WD40, and wonder why I recommend something else. WD40 is a good, general purpose lubricant, but it has its limitations. It is petroleum based (like fuel and oil, but more diluted), and by nature is just as likely to ice-over. I learned this one the hard way ages ago, so please learn from my mistake.

White lithium grease is (as you might guess from its name) lithium-based. I'm no chemist by any stretch, but I can tell you that greases containing lithium have a 'soap' base - check out the containers of bearing and chassis grease, which mention 'lithium #2 soap base', if you want to see for yourself. For whatever reason, the lithium-based lubricant tends to penetrate deeper, stick around longer, and repel future moisture better than the petroleum-based lubes do.

Just like with the door seals, I recommend wiping off excess moisture with a clean, dry rag before applying the W.L.G. Then, spray a generous coat on the hinges, from top to bottom. Let it set a few seconds, then swing the door back-and-forth (but not necessarily all the way closed) to let the lube work itself into the nooks and crannies. Reapply as needed, as directed on the can's instructions. Repeat process with remaining door(s)

More Helpful Hints

Since the driver's door is used the most (unless you do the climbing-over thing for random reasons), it is also the one most likely to 'stick' on you. Make sure you pretreat the seals and hinges *now*, to avoid being literally 'left out in the cold' this winter.

Remember to also treat your trunk/hatch door seals and hinges. If you need to pack up the trunk for a trip to see family and friends for Christmas, you don't want to be without easy access to your cargo area. (Or, should you get a flat tire, you would need access to your spare tire, jack and tools - which are usually in the trunk.)

Consider treating the hood latch with a generous coat of W.L.G.. The hood latch is at the very front-and-center of your vehicle, generally hiding between the 'grille' and the radiator. Think of all the weather it literally faces daily, head-first. It is the most rust-prone part on just about any vehicle on the road. Whether your car is overheating (and needs coolant), or you just want to check the fluid levels on the family van, the hood latch is your only access method to all of that. Keep it working nicely with a periodic treatment of W.L.G..

Alright, Readers, I think that should be enough for this edition. Next time we meet, I hope to bring you my own 'Winter-Weather Essentials Kit' list, maybe even with a photo. We'll see how the photo part goes.

Until next time, remember to take care of your vehicle as well as you want it to take care of you.

PPM

Symptom Checklist is Posted!

Good Afternoon, Readers!

Just so you know, the first of the checklists I promised earlier has officially been posted! The link I attached to this post should take you directly to my first unveiled creation, "Parts Pro Mom's Auto Symptom Checklist". Additionally, I have included it at the top of the list on the "Links of Interest" page.

My long-term plan is to have a separate page for links to the checklists I create to share with my readership base. But. until I have enough to warrant this move (my benchmark for now is at least two or three), you can find them on the Links of Interest page.

I'm always open to suggestions, so if you have any ideas you'd like to see incorporated here let me know. The comment floor is always open!

PPM

Clearing the Proverbial Air on Pro-Rated Warranties

Hello, Readers.

[This is another post that I started during the early part of my healing process, but have only now been able to complete. I originally began this post on 10.30.11, in the hopes I could completely write it up in short bursts within a few hours' time. Things didn't go according to plan, but I didn't give up. While I am on a roll, I'm posting this one now, tonight (on 11.19.11).]

Today, I want to demystify the 'pro-rated warranties' that apply to certain parts (think automotive tires and batteries). Have you ever wondered what that was all about, exactly how it worked? Let me shed some light on that subject for you.

We have already discussed that warranties exist for some items - both inside and outside the automotive industry. The next trick to the warranty process, is knowing what kind of warranty there is. Certain items - I will discuss tires and batteries as the examples here - involve a 'pro-rated' warranty. [As a side note to any Dave Ramsey/FPU fans: yes, this is along similar lines as the 'pro-rata' payment division used in the bankruptcy court repayment calculations.]

Just so you know, 'pro-rata' (the root term for 'pro-rated') is one of those Latin-based phrases, and it translates 'per-share' or 'proportionately'. When a warranty is said to be 'pro-rated', basically it means that the credit you receive is reduced 'proportionately' for the amount of use you did get out of it. If you return an item under warranty purposes - and wish to receive a refund in lieu of a replacement item - the receipt will show the item's full value as a refund, followed by a 'charge-back' for a certain amount (per month, per mile, etc) multiplied by the number of (months, miles, etc) you used it. The difference between the two is what your net refund would be.

Let's say you'd rather have a replacement item.  You do still need a properly working (fill-in-the-blank-part) after all! In that case, the receipt would show the item's full value as a refund (for the return), followed by the item's full value as a charge (for the new sale), then finally the 'charge-back' outlined in the above scenario. The first two line items cancel each other out for a 'net-zero' invoice; the 'charge-back' is the part where you pay for the use you did get.

Is this still a tad confusing? Let's see if giving a few examples help us out.

Example 1:
You buy a set of 4 tires with a 65,000 mile warranty at Acme Tire Company. They cost you $150 per tire, plus taxes and fees (road hazard protection, old tire disposal, etc.). For some reason - and not from doing burn-outs or other such abuse - one or two (or more) of your tires fail after 15,000 miles of use. So, when you return to get the defective tire(s) replaced, Acme will put the new one(s) on for you. When you get checked out, you will be charged $34.62 per tire (plus tax, and any potential fees). Here's the math: 15,000/65,000 = 23.08% usage before failure. $150 * 0.2308 = $34.62. [Unless something changes in the near future, tire warranties have no free replacement period at all.]


Example 2:
You need a battery for your vehicle, but do not intend to keep it for more than another year. Of the options presented, you choose to purchase the battery that has a 60 month pro-rated/12 month free replacement warranty. Life happens, and you wind up still driving the thing 25 months later when the battery goes out again. When you get it replaced, you will pay for 25 months of use before failure; this will be charged at a flat monthly rate, not as a percentage of months used. You replace it with an identical battery, so that is all you owe (besides tax and any fees).

NOTE: Pro-rated battery warranties generally lose the last of their credit value somewhere between 1/2 and 2/3 of lifetime use. So, in the above example, you would start paying full price for a replacement battery somewhere between the 30th and 40th month of use.

Example 3:
Same situation as Example 2. Only this time, you decide that you deserve to upgrade to a battery with a longer warranty (and some more power, as well). The invoice you receive will show: 1. the sale (charge) of the better battery at full price; 2. the return (credit) for the full price of the defective, shorter-warranty battery; 3. the charge of 25-times the monthly usage rate for the period of good use you did receive. The net balance after all this is done is what you owe to get the upgraded battery. It may seem like you are paying a lot of money, but compare the bill to the original full-price of the better battery with tax, etc. You will see how much of a discount you truly did receive.

I certainly hope this article and the examples I have cleared up this foggy matter for you. If you wind up facing a pro-rated warranty situation not covered here, please contact me. It will be my pleasure to walk through it with you and make sure what is going on makes sense.

Until next time, remember to be an informed consumer.

PPM

Warranty Enforcement 101

[Disclosure: I originally started this on 10.1.11, but I was still recovering from being rear-ended on 9.28.11. It took me until today, 11.18.11, to finish that and post it.]

Greetings, fair Readers!

There seems to be a *lot* of people out there who don't fully understand the warranty-return process. Based solely on all the ones I have encountered over the years (and recently), I thought it prudent to take this opportunity to clarify the matter. Even if you are pretty confident that you know this topic inside-out, please humor me by reading through this anyway. If it turns out you were already 100% right, then you can use this blog as black-and-white-proof to show others who may doubt your wisdom.

By now, I am sure that most of you have probably purchased at least one item (car, home appliance, the latest techno-gadget...) where there was a "manufacturer's warranty" offered. The usual language in these warranties is something to the effect of, "warranted to be free of defects in material and workmanship (or craftsmanship), to the original purchaser". There are usually legal disclaimers of the warranty being void under certain conditions (misuse, abuse, neglect, modification, etc).

Most importantly, the warranty language always requires 'proof of purchase' (or 'proof of ownership'), to prove the "original purchaser" is the one making the defect claim. What exactly is this 'proof of purchase/ownership'? Your receipt! (In the case of vehicles, the title would be your proof - naturally. But, check on the warranty language in those cases. Some manufacturers may allow a one-time transfer of warranty coverage from initial owner to second owner. Get any promises of such in writing from the company that owns your vehicle's brand.)

All too often, I get a customer in my store who expects an alleged-defective part to be replaced...but he/she doesn't have a receipt, nor a package with the part number on it. He/she assumes we will just 'look [him/her] up in the computer', but that is simply not the case. I know those inferior parts stores have pretty much always logged customer information into their sales system. BUT, that will only help you as long as you stay locally all your life. What if you move to another town, state, or even region? The inferior chain store near your new home might not have access to 'your information', since even national chains are limited in their internal file-sharing. I submit, the era of 'personal responsibility' is long overdue to return!

Protect your warranty rights - and allow the store/manufacturer to help you - by doing the following.

1. Give yourself an attitude check. Angry? Understandable. Belligerence is not!
Any decent customer service employee will understand if you are frustrated and/or upset because of the failed product. However, if you start acting like you are 'entitled' to this and/or that (especially if you don't have your receipt) or become hostile with the employee for inappropriate reasons, don't be surprised if you are not only denied the warranty, but kicked out of the store. Respect must be shown by *all* parties, including you, the customer!

2. Know before you go: Store Hours and Warranty/Return Policy.
Of course, even the most calm-cool-collected person can get irritated when he/she gets to a store for a return, only to realize the business day is over. To save your sanity, always call the store *first* in order to verify what the business hours are. If it has been a while since your last visit, confirm their location (address) as well. Before you hang up, ask them what the return policy is, especially for warranty situations. Most likely, you will need to bring the 'alleged defective' product and your copy of the receipt from when you purchased it.

3. Protect Yourself: Keep your receipt legible and safe!
I'll bet you are wondering, "How are you supposed to preserve receipts, when they fade and degrade so easily?" And I have a simple solution, which involves 'basic' office supplies: Get a binder (1" size should be fine), some clear page protectors, and a Sharpie. With the Sharpie, write the year/make/model and color of the vehicle on the short filing edge of the binder. Write the same info on the front cover, including the full VIN (alternatively, you could type this up as a cover page to place there). Fill the rings with the page protectors. Then file all your receipts for this car in these page protectors. You might even consider making photocopies of your receipts before filing. [Most parts stores will happily accept a good photocopy of the original invoice, just as if you had supplied the original.]

And there you have it: an overview of how warranties work and how you can arm yourself to reap the benefits. I pray that you do not find yourself in the position of needing this article for reference anytime soon, unless it for the record-keeping tip. But, if you do wind up having a warranty replacement situation in the near future, please consider the above advice. In heeding it, you will have a far smoother, calmer, and quicker transaction, allowing you to move on with your life that much sooner. Wouldn't that be nice?

Until next time, remember to take care of your auto, so it can help take care of you.

PPM

"I Need an 'Air-Filter-Oxygen-Sensor', Please"

Good Morning, Readers! [Ok, this didn't post until exactly 12:00 ET...]

I worked until closing time at my store last night, which gave me a great idea for today's blog post. I had a gentleman call during the last business hour, wanting a quote on an "air-filter-oxygen-sensor" for his F150. I pulled up our catalog system and plugged in his truck's information, then verified what part I heard him request. The problem, dear Readers, was that the part name he mentioned didn't make sense. I asked him if he had needed *two* parts - an air filter AND an oxygen sensor - or just one. He told me 'one'.

I brainstormed for a moment, then noticed he had someone in the background telling him what to say. It sounded like that person was trying to read something that was jotted down for them, but perhaps in a short-hand way. A-ha! I knew that some oxygen sensors were listed as "A/F (Oxygen) Sensors", for a technical reason that is not always explained well to the public. So, I suspected that the "A/F" was misinterpreted as 'air filter' - which is a common old-school abbreviation that even I still use - when really it was just an oxygen sensor. I asked the gentleman if the part was written down as "A/F", and he confirmed. Whew!

At that point, I went ahead and looked up the oxygen sensor, but also asked if he was basing this repair on a code. He said yes, that his truck was giving him a code of "P0171". I went to my reference website, where I saw this code was "System Too Lean (Bank 1)". Hmm. That said nothing about the Oxygen Sensor, just that the Bank 1 (#1 cylinder side) of his engine was not getting enough fuel. I asked him if he had noticed any performance issues with his truck. At first he said no, but then he qualified it with, "well, sometimes... when I'm on the interstate... but it doesn't last very long." While I was at it, I asked him if there were any other codes, and he said one other came up, "P0174". By the way, that code is "System Too Lean (Bank 2)". (Bank 2 = the non-#1 cylinder side of the engine.) Double-hmm.

I went ahead and quoted him an upstream oxygen sensor anyway - just in case - but I explained to him a few of things:
1. A/F oxygen sensor = special type of oxygen sensor. It measures the amount of oxygen in the exhaust.
2. All vehicles have an 'ideal ratio (mix)' of air to fuel. Think of the 'mixed drink' scotch-and-soda.
3. "System Too Lean" = light on the fuel/heavy on the air. Think of scotch-and-soda, light on scotch/heavy on soda.
NOTE: "System Too Rich" = heavy on fuel/light on air. Think of 'scotch-and-soda, easy on the soda'. I hear the drink is good - I'm sure it has a good burn - but the fuel/air mix version means you're burning excess fuel!

The blessing of computers ('brain boxes') in vehicles, is that they are great message-takers and give you those messages in the form of codes. The curse is, you have to know not only what those codes represent, but also what they truly mean. Ok, I heard that collective, "Huh?!" Read on; you will see what I mean.

Let's review...

My client called in for pricing on an oxygen sensor, based (partially!) on a code somebody, somewhere had retrieved from his F150 for him. But the code he gave me was for a 'lean' system condition on one side of his engine. After further discussion, another code mentioned the other side of his engine was running 'lean' as well. What are the chances of him needing two oxygen sensors at the same time, with codes that don't mention them being bad?

Most vehicles driving around these days have either three or four oxygen sensors. The F150 in this scenario had an engine with eight cylinders, shaped in a "V" with four cylinders on each side. Hence, the term "V8" applies. In the V-shaped engines, each half of the V has its own exhaust manifold, which remain separate until they merge in the exhaust pipe system. Each exhaust manifold (the 'banks' referenced above) has an oxygen sensor, who's job is to report on the oxygen levels (or air/fuel mixture) in that specific side of the engine. Since these sensors are always before the catalytic converter(s), they are labeled 'upstream'. Sensors appearing *after* the converter(s) are labeled 'downstream'. [If you consider comparing the flow of exhaust gas to the flow of liquid water is odd, you aren't alone!]

Now, the gentleman's truck was giving codes about 'lean' burning conditions. Based on what information? Well, that would be the measurements provided by his two 'upstream' oxygen sensors. They weren't faulty; they both detected a decreased fuel presence in the exhaust mixture, and reported that situation accurately. His engine was being starved (to a degree) of fuel!

After further discussion, the gentleman revealed that he hadn't changed his fuel filter in about three years. I advised him to start with a fresh filter - and to replace it every 12- 24 months, depending on driving mileage/conditions. He also admitted that he hadn't ran a fuel treatment in almost as long, so I recommended he run *one* through at the same time. With all of the build up of contaminants in his filter alone, there may also be build up in the rest of the fuel delivery system. But, using fuel cleaners too often - or too high a concentration, or even worse, both - can wreak havoc on your fuel pump. So, I cautioned him to use only one treatment and then assessing the progress from that point. I even offered to clear those codes off for him when the repair was done, so he could have a 'fresh start' to his computer's message system.

The gentleman expressed gratitude for my thoroughness in solving his true problem, and asked what the store hours and my hours were. It sounds like I have a loyal customer waiting to see me tomorrow morning. Hmm, I wonder if he read any of my earlier blog posts...

Drive aware, Readers!

Fuel Station Guide: Self-Service Effort, Full-Service Results

Greetings, Readers!

Being in my early-to-mid-thirties, I am probably among the last of the "Gen-X'ers" to actually remember full-service gas stations. Do you remember those? Just to make sure we are on the same page, let me briefly explain.

Unlike the majority of fuel centers of today, gas stations used to be staffed with attendants who would not only pump your gas for you, but would also conduct 'courtesy services'. These extra services included more than just cleaning your windshield; the attendant would also check your fluid levels, check/adjust your tire pressure, and visually inspect certain under-the-hood items (usually anything made of rubber). Mind you, this was back when the local fuel station had only one or two four-pump islands, as well as a small (two or three bays) general-service garage. The last ones I knew of were mostly Marathons, but I do know of at least one Shell in my area... I think the Shell might still be open for fuel and repairs, just not the 'full service refueling' aspect.

Now, Readers, I don't expect you to be a mechanic when you refuel. You might get a few suspicious glances if you try to do actual repair work at the pumps! Rather, my intention is to have you think like a mechanic at these times, because they are your opportunities to catch problems while they are still small. In the interest of brevity, I will simply list the tasks below. We can always discuss the impact of a given item in a future edition.

1. Grab the gas station's window squeegy, dunk it well in the cleaner, grab a few paper towels and clean:
 a. front and rear windshields, door windows
 b. outside mirror glass
 c. lenses for ALL lights (headlights, tail/stoplights, turn signals, sidemarkers, etc)
 d. license plates
NOTE: Use the towels to wipe off the squeegy's rubber blade for each pass. You may need to re-dunk the squeegy's sponge head once or twice. Be sure to clean the items in the order specified.

2. Keep those paper towels handy! Open the hood to check the following fluids. Top off as necessary.
 Check these with the ENGINE OFF:
 a. engine oil - weight rating and type per oil change sticker or owner's manual
 b. antifreeze/coolant - 50/50 mix of correct type for your vehicle
 c. power steering fluid - check your manual (or cap/dipstick) for type... some use ATF!
 d. brake fluid - usually DOT 3 or DOT 4, but refer to your owner's manual to confirm
 e. washer solvent - the only true 'universal fluid' for all vehicles
 Check with the ENGINE ON:
 f. automatic transmission fluid (IF you have a dipstick to check. Some A/T cars are coming 'sealed'.)

3. "Look over" your engine compartment (the under-the-hood area) with your eyes, ears and nose - but watch what you touch! Make note of anything that appears:
 a. To be wet (from leaking/spraying fluids)
 b. To be dried-out/cracked
 c. To be discolored (as in burnt/charred)
 d. To smell funny
 e. To make odd/unusual sounds (grinding, squealing, etc,)
 f. To look odd in any way

4. Close the hood, finish your fuel purchase, then do the following 'safety checks'.
 a. Turn on your wiper blades and push the washer solvent button. Can you see well? If the wiper blades' rubber is torn, it's time to replace them. (Key must be at least be to 'radio on' position to do this.)
 b. Turn on your headlights - first the regular ones, then the bright ones - to make sure none are burnt out.  Walk around to the back to check your taillights also; they turn on with the headlight switch.
 c. Turn on your hazard lights (aka "flashers"); make sure all four lights (two each on the front and the back) are working. This is a cheating way to check your turn signal bulbs, because they are the same.
 d. Press your brake pedal to check the brakelights (aka stoplights). If you can't tell that they are working, ask someone nearby (a passenger in your vehicle, or even someone else pumping gas) to look for you.

5. Use the tire guage from your vehicle to measure the air pressure in all of your tires... including the spare! Compare to the standard mentioned in your owner's manual. NOTE: If you think you'll need air anyway, you can use the air guage on the air chuck to measure as well. I just prefer to know how many of my tires actually need air (and how much they need), before turning on the machine.

Well, there you have it. That is a good, basic checklist of what to do next time you are waiting for your fuel tank to fill up. Obviously, you won't check the transmission fluid until you are done refueling (when you are safe to start the auto). If you have any questions about what we covered today, please leave me a comment below.

PPM

Checklists Are Coming!

Greetings, Readers!

I have had a number of clients recently that expressed concern over not knowing what to tell the shop about their vehicle. All they know, is that their car (or truck, van, SUV, or what-have-you) "broke down" on them. When asked to give more information, they get that classic deer-in-the-headlights look. Some of them get snippy and say, "I don't know! I'm not a mechanic, else why would I be asking you for help?!" Hey, I've been in a place of frustration myself before - even recently, despite what I know! - so I know better than to take their venting personally.

So, what do I do in these situations? I pull up this 'symptom checklist' in my head, while offering a simple apology to transition the conversation. "Oh, I'm sorry, Sir/Ma'am. I believe my question didn't come across as intended. Often, people know certain quirks about their car and the way it behaves. When the car behaves differently, that 'insider knowledge' can help us to figure out what repair(s) need to be considered. I have a few questions I'd like to ask you, so we can work together to determine what you need. Would that work for you?"

At that point, I ask the relevant questions one-by-one, skipping some and inserting others as the conversation dictates. Every time I've gone through this, the client generally winds up asking if this list of questions is somewhere on the internet. I'm telling you right now, I haven't found it anywhere. Yet. I know the internet is an immense web of knowledge, so someone somewhere may have put up a similar list. Problem is, I have yet to find it... as is the case with my clients.

So, for those who have been hunting for such a checklist... you will soon find it here. I am creating it in the Google Docs cloud system, so I can share it with even more people once it is complete. I started working on the checklist this morning, but had to dash out for a few errands. I am still not ready to post it, but when I do you will find it either in the "Links" tab/page or on a separate tab/page for "Forms" (or "Documents", haven't decided on the heading just yet).

I'll be back with more soon!

PPM

Check Out the Blog Updates!

Hi there, Readers!

I just wanted to take a quick moment to point out my new pages. You probably have already noticed the 'CORE Charge & Sales Tax' tab, which was my first page addition. If you haven't read it yet, I recommend you do so soon... or even right now! The whole business of CORE charges and when they apply can be confusing (not to mention the whole sales tax discussion on that charge), so I wanted to be sure that topic had its own page here.

The 'Links of Interest' page was newly created last night. I got a great start on it, but I didn't like the way the links appeared. Then I realized I needed to brush up on my HTML code so I could have my links properly formatted. It's been a good while since I've used the code, so I was *really* jazzed when it started making sense to me again! After a few simple keystrokes, my links started behaving the way I had intended originally, and even more Link ideas occurred to me. YES!! Success!!

I hope to include even more links over this Labor Day weekend, so be sure to check back often.

Cheers,

PPM

Do You *Really* Want $15 Brake Pads?

Greetings, Readers!

I've bitten my tongue for long enough. [Okay, those who have read my earlier posts might chuckle at that statement...] I am going to come right out and hammer on this topic that utterly and totally confuses me. I just don't understand the logic behind it, so I want us to discuss this, and ultimately come to a consensus. Either I will convince you to see things the way I (and others in the industry) do, or one of you fine readers will have to come forward and explain the logic in thinking oppositely.

Here's the deal. I certainly understand the basic fact that the American economy generally sucks for the everyday-Joe. And - to an extent - I can appreciate the fact that there are certain cars that bring their owners such joy, usually based on status symbol-based reasons. BUT, what I don't comprehend at all, is the tendency of customers to want to splurge on everything that makes a car run... while being worse than Mr. Scrooge on everything that makes the car stop or steer correctly. The biggest mind bogglers: People driving old/older luxury brands (think of late 90's and earlier Mercedes-Benz, Volvo, etc.) but who gripe when the least expensive pads available are at least ~$40. Seriously?!

REALITY CHECK #1: An auto that will not run, will not make the news for hurting or killing anyone. An auto that will not stop or turn as the driver wishes is an accident waiting to happen; this is called 'loss of control' or 'failure to control', which is generally a citation-worthy offense (even if you manage to avoid hurting/killing anyone).


REALITY CHECK #2: Part of the status those luxury cars symbolize, is that you not only can afford *to drive* it, but that you can actually afford *to own* it - including repair costs. If you honestly think you can get by driving around in your sweet ride without any concern for true ownership... Ha! The joke will be on you when your dream of a ride literally crumbles around you.


Whether the auto you own is a "$50 beater", a new luxury masterpiece, or anything in between, I highly recommend that you completely forget about any 'low-ball' $15 or $20 brake pads you hear about. I would agree that 'something is better than nothing', but if you brakes are not road-worthy, you may as well find alternative transportation (carpool, public transportation, biking/walking, borrowing a car from a friend/family member) and save up the extra money to get something decent. You might be surprised that the next level up is only $30 to $40 (or thereabouts), which isn't a very large jump. I wouldn't trust $15 pads for any longer than one week, maybe two, depending on the application. 


So, let's review:

1. Cars that won't stop are dangerous to everyone. Therefor, cheap pads = potentially expensive mess!

2. Certain autos are called 'status symbols' for a reason: they symbolize that you have the financial stature not only to drive them, but also to maintain them properly.

Now that we have cleared up that matter, please keep it in mind when learning what your latest 'ownership dues' are during your next repair scenario.

Until next time,

PPM

Vehicle Maintenance 101

Hello, Readers!

We have already discussed: 1) how to select the right parts store for you (think quality!); 2) how to have a successful phone (or in-person) conversation regarding needed items; and 3) CORE charges and sales tax (this is mentioned on its own page for this blog). Since we have all of that established, now seems to be the right time for a 'car maintenance primer'.

There are two important books I recommend you obtain for your vehicle. The first book is the owner's manual for your vehicle. [Yes, I do realize that I have already mentioned (briefly) the importance of owner's manuals in a previous post. But, it is a rather vital source of intelligence for the vehicle you own and operate, so this point bears repeating.] When any automobile is sold new at the dealership, it comes with the owner's manual that the manufacturer provided. Any decent used (or 'previously-owned') dealership will likewise make sure that the auto you purchase from them has it's handy-dandy instruction manual.

The owner's manual is chock full of information you need to know in order to be an informed owner. If you haven't taken the opportunity to read through one before, give it a shot now. You are probably familiar with the adage 'a picture is worth a thousand words'. So, given the relatively small size of the book, it should be no major surprise that it includes a lot of pictures and sketches for reference purposes. That also makes it easier for you literally to see what is being discussed, where it is located and why it is important.

For those not familiar with them, here is a highlighted list of key information in the owner's manual:
1. Table of Contents and/or Index (handy for finding exactly what you seek).
2. Warning Lights (on the dash or 'instrument cluster') and what they mean when lit.
3. Under the Hood - most of the 'more common stuff' should be identified in a sketch or digital photo. For example: air filter housing, oil dipstick, transmission dipstick (if not a 'stick shift' and not a 'sealed system' from the factory), oil filler cap, radiator cap/coolant reservoir (tank), washer fluid tank, battery (or battery jump-start posts, if mounted elsewhere).
4. Fuse panels - there are usually two, sometimes three. You will have at least one 'Main Fuse Panel' (in your Under the Hood section) which uses really big fuses called 'MAXI'. You will also have a 'secondary' fuse panel somewhere in your dash in the auto. Your manual will tell you where to find it, what kind of fuse it takes and what amperage rating for each function (there's a soup of 3 letters with a 1 or 2 digit number to describe these).
5. Fluids - Verify with your manual before adding any fluid besides washer solvent. These days, autos are very picky about the fluids they require. Coolant/antifreeze, transmission fluid, power steering fluid, motor oil, brake fluid, differential/gear oil are all becoming very manufacturer-specific. Your manual *may* also mention total capacity on some of these fluids, but that is not guaranteed.
6. Bulbs - If you experience a burnt-out light bulb (headlight, dome light, tail light, license plate light, etc), most owner's manuals are very good about having a chart with the bulb numbers required for all the common positions.

NOTE: If your auto did not come with its owner's manual - or if yours has become lost over time - there is hope for you! Option #1: You can go to the parts department of the dealership that sells your brand of auto to purchase one (it will probably be a special order deal, especially if your auto is 'mature in age'). Option #2: You can order the manual yourself directly from Helm, Inc. via their website, www.helminc.com. [No, I am not linked with Helm, Inc. in any way. I only remember using them previously to order manuals for work purposes.]

The other book I want you to get, is a repair manual covering your auto's make, model and year. Chilton does a really good job with their books, so I highly recommend them. You could also check the internet for various online repair manuals offered by any number of companies (including Chilton), if that is more your thing. However, I find the professionally-printed-and-bound format of a book to be more handy for reference purposes once the repair task is underway. Not all makes are currently covered by repair manuals - the increasingly popular brand Kia comes to mind as an example - so some autos may require more research than others.

Why should you bother with the repair manual? Well, as handy as the owner's manual is, it stops short of telling you the play-by-play process of actually repairing your vehicle. Basically, the owner's guide may tell you that your 1998 Ford Taurus uses a 3157K bulb in the tail light position; it does *not* tell you the secret handshake to accessing the old bulb for replacement. The repair manual fills this void of information.

Even if you never intend 'to play mechanic' with your auto beyond the simple stuff (bulbs, wipers, air filter - maybe), I bet you also do not intend to pay more for repairs at a shop than you really need to pay. Knowledge is power, right? Well, without wisdom and discipline, that power goes to waste. You can 'know' that your brakes are noisy, in need of service. BUT, if you don't get the wisdom (from the Chilton's, or whatever book you choose) you need of which symptoms mean what, the time and procedures involved in the total repair, you can't make an informed decision on what quoted work to authorize for completion. AND you must have the discipline to keep your facts at your fingertips - knowing how many labor hours are typical for a given job, for example - to be able to stand your ground when you suspect something is 'off' about the repair's estimate.

By all means, get your hands on both of these books for the automobiles in your life. Get acquainted with these books, because you just might be surprised how much you really *do* know (or just plain figure out) about fixing your vehicle. :-)

I'll be back, again, soon!

The (Quality) Auto Parts Store is your Friend! (Part 2)

Welcome back, Readers!

In our last edition, we discussed the importance of finding a *quality* auto parts store. The friendly counterpeople there will be more interested in figuring out which part(s) you actually need during your first visit. The cheap guys will simply have you 'throw' various parts at it, until either the problem is solved or you give up on solving it altogether. I think we can agree on which approach is truly the most customer-centric.

Alright, so now you know which quality parts store will get your first call for parts. Perhaps you have a few repairs you know need to be done soon (or even need to be done pronto). Now is the time for you to contact your new friends at the quality parts store. Even if you are not sure what the proper term is for a given part (or even if you don't know what most of the parts on your vehicle look like), that should not prevent you from getting the information you seek: pricing, availability and options.

You have your pen and paper in front of you, the phone in your hand to call... do you feel a bit nervous? If you aren't already accustomed to calling parts stores for quotes, doing so might remind you of the first time you tried to call that guy/gal you had a crush on from school. You know you really want to call, but you aren't sure what to do or say when the other party answers. Well, let's go ahead and set you up for a successful call.

1. First things first: Know the Year, Make, Model & Engine Size of your vehicle. Basic? Yes. But, by now you probably realize that I like to start with the basics before moving on to anything more complicated. If you don't know what you are driving, it is rather difficult to look up the right parts for your vehicle. If all else fails, have the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) handy, so we can use that to figure out the information we need. You can find your VIN on your title, registration or insurance card. Are none of those handy? If you are by your vehicle, approach the driver's door, then stand at the hood-side of your outside mirror. Look at the bottom of your windshield in the dark border area of the glass. There will be a 'peep hole' wide enough for you to see a raised set of numbers and letters. Write all 17 of them down; that is your VIN.

2. Have a decent idea of which parts you need, either by name, by what they do, or by the symptoms your vehicle shows you. If you've noticed a lot of a high-pitched squealing noise when you try to stop, you might need new brake linings (pads or shoes), but you'll also need to remember whether the noise was from the front or the rear of the vehicle. Just like telling your family doctor what symptoms you experience, when and under what conditions, the same is true of your vehicle. Your automobile is like another child, one that can't use words to tell you what it needs. But, your auto will show you behaviors and symptoms that you need to jot down for repair reference purposes. Keep a small notebook and pen handy, if that helps you to remember this crucial information. Examples of what to note: Outside temperature and/or weather conditions, time of day, speed of vehicle, moving or parked/stopped, sound types (low or high, long or short, clunky or screechy, etc), highway or city driving, uphill/downhill/level, straight/curvy/cornering situations... you get the idea.

3. When you call the parts store, be sure you are ready to talk with the person who answers. Sounds silly, right? If you have a mouthful of food or drink you need to swallow when we answer, that's no big deal. We understand. This reminder is more for those who are in the habit of calling any place of business, while still carrying on an active conversation with people in the room with them. All too often, a store will have customers who actually came in to get a quote or make a purchase, when someone calls while still yucking it up with his/her buddies. Balancing phone customers with in-store customers is a delicate matter any business strives to master. Please understand that any customer who has spent gas money by driving to the store in person, automatically outranks a phone customer who is too busy socializing to pay attention to the conversation.

4. Note the counterperson's name, tell them the vehicle and the parts you seek (or the symptoms it shows, if you aren't sure). Again, pretty basic, but I know the 'first call jitters' can sometimes make you freeze up. Businesses generally have a standard greeting they use, but the formula tends to be "Thank you for calling [Company Name]. This is [Employee Name]. How may I help you?" If you didn't catch the employee's name - or if it sounded unusual to you - be sure to ask him/her to repeat it. A simple, "I'm sorry, what did you say your name is?" does the trick nicely. For the rest of this topic, simply share the information from #2 above.

5. Pricing, Availability, Options. This part might be a bit more involved, depending on how many different parts (or systems) you are discussing. What you need to jot down in your notes: part's name, price (plus core charge, if any), warranty length and type (if any), and availability (in store, at another store/warehouse or special order). Stores are accustomed to phone customers expecting the lowest price available for a quote. This is the 'as low as', or the 'starting at' price quoting strategy you've probably seen in other industries (flooring/carpeting, mattresses and bedding, furniture, etc). So, if you want to know about other options be sure to ask!

6. Verify the store's business hours and any deadline times to consider. When you are ready to make the purchase, you obviously want to know when the store is open to serve you. If any of the parts you seek need to be retrieved from another location, you want to be sure the store has ample time to make that happen for you - especially if you have a narrow window of time in which your repair can be handled.


7. Verify the counterperson's hours. Think of all the time he or she just spent determining what you need, looking up the parts to quote you, then making sure you were fully satisfied with the information given. Did he or she also take the time to suggest related parts you may want to double check for age/wear considerations, along with a clear and adequate explanation of how they are related? All companies track employee productivity in some fashion. So, by giving the actual sale to the person who first helped you, you are enabling the store (and it's corporate label) to recognize and reward the employee for his/her good service.


Once you have completed step 7, you are ready to conclude the call. Now, all you have to do is decide which part you wish to purchase from the information in front of you. Of course, budget and schedule concerns may dictate the timing of the repair, but only you hold the answer to your particular situation. Whenever you are ready to make the purchase at the store, feel free to call ahead (even if the item was in stock there) and ask your counterperson to reserve it for you. Just make sure you will be picking the item up that same business day, because most stores don't have the space to 'hold' items longer than same-day. Even if you show up after he/she leaves, by having it in reserve for you the sale should still be properly credited to the right counterperson.

I think that should be enough to help you through those first few phone quotes for parts. The same process can be used for getting a quote at the store, with the added bonus of being able to see what the part looks like (even if it is only a picture in the book or on the screen). If you are as visual as I am, that is really helpful in identifying whether the part in question is what you were looking at on the auto!

As always, leave a comment or drop me a line if you have any questions. I look forward to hearing from you all.

The (Quality) Auto Parts Store is your Friend! (Part 1)

Before we get too far into the realm of repairing your vehicle, let's first have a chat about where you will get the parts you need. Sure, it sounds overly basic, but I'd rather we know that we are on the same page from the outset.

People who know how to cook well, insist on getting 'quality items, from the quality stores' when it really counts. Sure, even the finest cut of steak can be ruined by a bad cook (or a fine chef, on a very rare bad day), but a horrible steak can't be improved much at all by even the most elite chef. And the same can be said about auto parts. Even the most experienced mechanic (or 'technician' in some shops) can't make a 'cheap' part work very well - or for very long - particularly if the 'cheap auto parts' store sold the wrong part in the first place. Quality auto parts stores will not be the cheapest, generally speaking, but they will cost you less money in the long run!

Here's my question for you: How do the 'cheap auto parts stores' manage to sell their products for such a low price? Seriously, how do you think they make that work, while still making a profit? The simple answer is, they only employ the people that are cheap enough to fit in the budget! Do you really think a 'quality counterperson' would work (or work for long) for a company that paid as minimally as the 'cheap' guys do?

If you need to see proof, try doing this: Call (or even better, visit in person) the parts stores in your area. Contact them, asking for a quote on something - say an air filter, or wiper blades, or something basic like that - for your vehicle. [In fact, wiper blades - quoted in the store - may be a good conversation starter for this task.] While speaking with the employee, take the time to get to know him/her, the store, his/her colleagues. Find out how long each counterperson has been in the auto parts industry, and even where they have each worked. If that feels uncomfortable at first, try the honest approach by saying something like, "I'm looking for my go-to auto parts store, so I want to know a little more about the people I choose to give my business." I can assure you, that statement alone will be an attention-getter.


Once you know where you are going to get your parts - and more importantly, where you *will not* be going - do not be shy about asking them for help. Granted, the quality auto parts stores will *not* do mechanic work on your vehicle; they will, however, help you determine which parts you actually do (and do not) need, based on the information you provide. Alternatively, they will happily refer you to a local repair shop, should the repair be better suited for completion by an experienced mechanic. Whatever your repair situation happens to be, the quality-focused parts stores will be more concerned with selling you the right solution the first time; the 'cheap' guys will be more worried about selling you everything they can (no matter how many visits that takes on a single repair event), under the guise of 'servicing the customer'. Yeah, right! True customer service focuses on getting your repair solution right the first time, by working with you to discover the true repair needed.

[Disclosure: We have trained our daughters to automatically avoid any parts store with a dominant color of red. I'm not naming names, but in the Cincinnati-area, there are certain nationally-based chains that have a high reputation for low quality parts and people. These chains have red as their first - or very close second - most used color on their exterior signage. I refuse to ever work at any of these places, because I value the quality reputation I have built for myself.]

We've covered a lot so far, so let's take a break for now. The next edition will be Part 2 of this topic, which will include helpful tips for ensuring a positive parts store experience. I look forward to sharing more with you on this subject. Have a great week!

Fight Back in the Fuel Price War!

[Sorry to be late on posting this; I ran into a snag when I originally started writing this Thursday night. Enjoy!]


I had been debating in my head what topic to cover in this first edition, when my dear husband (or DH) had to fill both of our cars up this past Thursday evening. We own two Tauruses (or more properly, 'Tauri'), and each of them took over $60 to fill up! Ouch! He refueled his car at the gas station for $3.859/gal, then refueled mine at the grocery store's gas station for $3.719/gal (I had just noticed the price on a previous errand).

The sad thing is, we know that the gas prices generally jump on Thursday nights (around Greater Cincinnati, anyway), but we still find ourselves refueling at the wrong time. You know, busy workweek schedules, timing of the money in the bank versus due dates for various bills, some other random reasons that come out of nowhere... it all just seems to make life in general stack against us in the fuel budget war.

Wait... did I just use the term 'war' while mentioning fuel budget issues? Why, yes I did. As our Congressional leaders attack the nation's budget in DC, we each have our own budget battle going on at home, don't we? We may not have any direct control over the price-per-gallon we pay to refuel our vehicles, but we can fight back in another way: We can make our vehicles 'spend' their fuel allowance more efficiently, so we spend less at the pump in the long run.

Here are a few tips to help your vehicles make the most of the fuel they receive:

1. Change that fuel filter! Most people don't realize this, but in-line fuel filters should be changed about once a year (or every 12,000 to 15,000 miles). As time and miles go by, bits of sediment in the fuel are stopped by the in-line fuel filter. That's great, because they are prevented from reaching the engine. But, the filter can only store so much of the yucky stuff before it runs out of room. Eventually, the flow of fuel gets choked off by the traffic jam in the filter. Your fuel pump also gets overworked from increasing the flow to push passed the clog, which sometimes causes clumps of yucky stuff to be forced along toward the engine. Bad news, indeed.

2. Check Engine light on? Read your code(d message)! Okay, so maybe your little light says something else ('Service Engine Soon'), or just shows a picture of an engine (or you don't recognize what the picture is supposed to be). Think of the lights on your dash as messengers. If any light comes on and stays on (other than normal 'cruise control is on' type of stuff), that messenger is trying to get your attention. The 'Check Engine' light alerts you to the fact that a code has been stored in your vehicle's computer (also called ECM or 'brain box'). The light is saying 'you've got mail', but the mail is a coded message that must be retrieved by a scanner tool. If you have a 1996 or newer model year vehicle, nearly any code scanner will speak your car's language ('OBDII' - aka 'On Board Diagnostics 2'). If your vehicle is 1995 or prior, you need a scanner that speaks OBDI (that's OBD 1). Those are trickier to come by, and usually are mostly found in scanners that are 'bilingual' (reading codes in both OBD1 & 2). Due to expense, they are usually found at repair shops... And yes, shops will generally charge a fee for this service. However, often they will offer a deal where the diagnostic fee is applied toward the repair service that addresses the code and symptoms presented.

3. Keep your fuel level at 1/2 tank or fuller. What good does that do? Well, while you might first think of how much more often you would have to refuel, I submit it's not as often as you would think. The vast majority of vehicles on the road are fuel injected (as in, not using the old carburetor set up), with an electric fuel pump that actually is in the tank. [These can cost $300-$500 for the part alone, not to mention the labor cost.] The very fuel that it pumps, helps to insulate it from overheating. Not to mention the less effort that is required to pump fuel when it is on the fuller side, and the higher ratio of fuel versus sediments actually going through. Also, if the 1/2 mark is your new zero mark, you give yourself greater flexibility to choose when and where to refuel. Why stop in the middle of rush hour traffic, when waiting until closer to home is less stressful and probably cheaper per gallon (especially when you time it well, before the customary price hike times).

4. Read your owner's manual. Believe it or not, that little book is chock full of useful information. No, it won't tell you how to fix your vehicle; for that you need a 'repair manual', like the ones Chilton and other companies produce. Your owner's manual identifies the various parts of your vehicle  (oil dipstick, fuse panels, the components of your dash and instrument cluster, spare tire and jack, etc.) along with their locations. The manual gives helpful tips on how to use/interpret the assorted accessories (including what your dash lights tell you), but it also provides you a 'service interval' chart. Note: If you do not have the owner's manual for your car (because either you lost it along the way, or a previous owner never provided it to you), you *can* get a replacement one. Either get one through your dealership's parts department, or go to Helm, Inc's website (www.helminc.com).

5. Abide by your owner's manual's Service Interval Chart. The adage about prevention being a vital thing is very true with vehicle repairs. Vehicles that are given 'preventive maintenance' (also called 'PM') at the right times last far longer than ones serviced only when a component fails. Doing PM allows you to be proactive about vehicle repairs, with the side effect of less money being used on vehicle upkeep (or replacement). For example, a Taurus with a 3.0L OHV (12-valve, the more plain and common one) has a typical 150,000-mile life expectancy on the Automatic Transmission. Because my husband and I did proper PM on our 2002 model - transmission fluid flushes every 24 months/24,000 miles and the like - we didn't have that component fail until about 245,000 miles! (And *that* only happened because a soft metal bushing from the right-hand axle dissolved and got into the fluid, tearing up the internal gears of the transmission.)

And there you have my top five tips for fighting back in the fuel price war. Tip #3 is about the only one you wouldn't find (yet, that I know of) in your owner's manual. Otherwise, if the only tip you remember is #5, that will be enough of a memory jogger for you to apply 80% of the tips I've mentioned.

Now that we know how to do it, let's fight back in this fuel price war!

Welcome to my Automotive Advice Corner!

Hello, Readers! Welcome!

My name is Jenn Lash Daum. I have been an Aftermarket Automotive Parts Counterperson since July of 2000; I earned the ASE P2 - Parts Specialist Certification in May 2003 and earned my re-certification in May 2008. For those who aren't already familiar, 'ASE' stands for '(National Institute for) Automotive Service Excellence', but you may more familiar with their 'blue gear wheel' logo on signs and certificates at your favorite quality service garage - especially at the dealership service departments. Anyone obtaining an ASE Certification (there are many 'Service Areas' for which this can be achieved) must meet certain job-based criteria before sitting for the special test... which must be passed with a high score. To maintain it, you have to re-test every 5 years (and pass with the same high standards) to show your knowledge is current with the times. So, yes, I know a thing or two about automotive parts and systems. :-)

I live in the Greater Cincinnati, Ohio-area with my husband and two daughters. The area has a mobile home dealer with a spokesperson named 'Dan'. From time-to-time that dealer has sales, and Dan appears in ad-spots wearing a 'red tag' costume, chanting 'I'm Dan, Dan, the Red Tag Man'. That later inspired me to call myself what I was: Jenn Daum, the Parts Pro Mom.

I had previously tried to 'blog' on automotive topics elsewhere, but the venues (social networking sites) weren't right for the path I wanted to take. I finally realized Blogger was the best way to go. Here, I can have one designated website on which to write, while maintaining the ability to share via the various social media - both current and yet-to-come.

The first few posts will be on topics I have already 'pre-written' in my head. I will try to keep them brief, but some may warrant longer discussion. If need be, I may break longer blogs into 'parts', just to keep from having novel-length posts. As you read, please feel free to comment as you feel led to do so. I also welcome suggestions on additional topics to cover in future blogs.

I am here to share what I know, for the benefit of all caring to read and learn. Thanks for stopping by!