Hello again, Readers!
I was polishing up an article on a completely different subject - and no, not A/C! - when I was inspired to write and publish this one instead. Several customers came in asking for 'brakes' for their vehicles, but gave me the deer-in-the-headlights look when I asked the usual questions. After supplying the auto's details (year, make, model), they were lucky if they knew whether they needed them for the front or the back!
Before I continue, please make a note of this: The word "brakes" refers to the *entire* brake system of your auto. If you are only after 'brake pads' or 'brake shoes', you will need to use those specific terms. If you ask for a price on "brakes", you will likely get a quote for at least your rotors (or drums) as well. And as you will soon see, there IS a difference between 'pads' and 'shoes'!
I will now endeavor to name and explain the main brake system components.
Master Cylinder: This piece is located under the hood, on the driver's side, up against the firewall. Have you ever checked the brake fluid level on your vehicle? That tank (or 'reservoir') you checked is mounted to the top of the master cylinder. When you push the brake pedal, the master cylinder pushes the fluid through the lines and hoses, activating the brake systems at all four wheels.
NOTE: There is a LOT more to the brake hydraulics system topic,
but we will discuss that further in another edition.
Disc Brake System - Used on the front of all modern vehicles, and increasingly on the back as well.
Brake Rotor: This is shaped like a top-hat. The 'brim' is the friction-surface area, which is squeezed by the pads when you want to slow down/stop. The 'crown' (middle portion) sticks up/out further to mount the rotor onto the vehicle, then receive the wheel onto it. Rotors are sold 'per wheel'; there are 2 'per axle'.
NOTE: Some rotors are 'Rotor/Hub Assemblies', which means they
will have the wheel studs made onto them already. The rest
of them will have holes that line up with the studs that are
already on the vehicle. Just be aware!
Caliper: This is mounted at the top of the rotor, either towards the front edge or the back edge. It may remind you of a hand in a 'grabbing claw' position. It is anchored in place behind the rotor via a mounting bracket, The caliper holds 2 brake pads, 1 on each side of the rotor. The caliper has a hydraulically-moved piston on the 'inboard' side, which causes the pads to move. Calipers are also sold 'per wheel'.
NOTE: Loaded = w/ hardware & pads;
Semi-loaded/Friction-ready = w/ hardware;
Bare = caliper only
In all cases, be sure to ask if the mounting bracket comes with it!
Pads: These are the 'brake wear linings' on a Disc Brake system. They have a flat, semi-thick (maybe 1/4") metal backing plate, with a very thick (~1") form of baked-powder wearing material. The wearing material may or may not have a 'slot' (dividing groove) somewhere in the middle. (Some go vertically, others diagonally.) The pads fit inside the caliper housing. The wearing material ALWAYS faces the rotor's 'brim', sandwiching the rotor like an Oreo cookie. When the caliper piston sticks out, it forces the pads to squeeze the 'brim', which slows/stops the vehicle. Pads are sold 'per axle', 4 in a box.
NOTE: Most of the time - especially on the front axle - the 'inboard' pad
will look differently than the 'outboard' pad. If you see a set of
pads, and they seam to be two different pairs, that is probably
okay! If they seem to be a 4-of-a-kind (mostly on rear axles that
take disc brakes), then inboard/outboard does not matter.
Drum Brake System - Used on the rear of many modern vehicles, but also on the front of vehicles until about the early-to-mid 1970's.
Brake Drum: Whereas the Rotor was a top-hat, the Drum resembles more of a cake-pan. The inside wall of the pan is the friction-surface area. The shoes push out to rub against the front ("leading") and rear ("trailing") edges to help slow/stop the automobile. Unlike the disc system, you cannot see all of the major components from 'curbside'. Drums are sold 'per wheel'; there are 2 'per axle'.
NOTE: The vast majority of drums will have holes to receive the wheel
studs, as opposed to having the studs made onto them. Unless
you have a Medium-Duty truck or something similar - like the
ones that get turned into ambulances, dump trucks and such -
this won't really concern you.
Shoes: These are the 'brake wear linings' on a Drum Brake system. Again, they start with a metal backing plate, then add a baked-powder wearing material on the friction surface side. BUT, whereas pads are flat, shoes literally resemble a 'crescent moon'. The shoes both fit INSIDE the cake-pan - and yes, 'leading' and 'trailing' positions DO matter! A bunch of hardware (mostly springs) hold them in place, guide their movements and return them to their original position. As with pads, these are sold 'per axle', 4 in a box.
NOTE: The drum hardware resembles a complicated jigsaw puzzle when
assembled. Most technicians/mechanics do one side at a time,
using the other side as a reference picture. Yes, it's that confusing!
Wheel Cylinders: These tiny things are the drum system's equivalent of the caliper. There isn't a good non-automotive analogy readily available. The best I can do, is compare it to a chicken egg. Imagine a 'grade A large' egg, with the ends made out of rubber, and the middle made out of metal (steel and/or aluminum alloy). Now, stretch the middle a bit in length, until it resembles more of a tube with rounded ends. In the rubber ends, you see a metal screw/piston protruding slightly from each side. And on the top of the metal body, there are two threaded holes - one has an odd-headed screw in it. The slotted pistons are what force the shoes out against the inside walls of the drum. Sold 'per wheel', there are 2 wheel cylinders per axle.
There you have it: the primary components of automotive brake systems. We'll revisit this subject again soon, so we can go over the secondary components. By then, I hope to have a nice collection of photos of these pieces, so you can literally see what I mean. I just have to find the opportunity to take pictures of my stock parts at work! Then, I get to figure out the particulars on how Blogger wants me to add them. Sounds like an adventure to me!
Until next time, remember the Golden Rule... Not only good for people, but your auto, too!
PPM
26 July 2012
12 July 2012
"Freon" names: Not 'just a number'!
Welcome back, Readers!
Since our last gathering, the refrigerant (or as many say, "freon") sales at my store have remained incredibly high. Given our weather this hot summer season, that's not at all surprising. But we also *still* get a large portion of customers who don't know which refrigerant their vehicle takes, or why it even matters. If it wasn't so dangerous to confuse them all, we (store employees) wouldn't have a panic attack every time someone tried to mix them. [Cue "Home Alone" scream: Aaaaaaagggggghhhhhhh!!!!]
First things first: It's called "refrigerant", not "freon".
But, I suppose that misnomer will never really change. I liken that to all 'flying disc toys' being called 'Frisbees' (even if not made by the Frisbee toy company). Or Southerners calling all sodas/colas/pop "Coke"... then clarifying "Pepsi", "7-Up", "Diet Coke", etc. for someone's specific carbonated drink choice. When a product reaches a certain popularity level, it tends to be the 'face and name' of the category it represents. Since the refrigerant named R12 was commonly known as "freon", that moniker has also been applied to other refrigerants.
Good to note: The many refrigerants that exist.
Just off the top of my head, I can name 3 refrigerants: R12, R22 and R134a. I'm quite certain others exist, but for the purposes of this article we only need to mention these three.
R22 is NOT an automotive grade of refrigerant. It's use is primarily confined to refrigerator/freezer units. (Yes, as in cold food storage!) I am not certain, but R22 may have also been used in A/C units for buildings. I know *some* type of refrigerant is used, either R22 or its replacement. Actually, I believe R22 is being phased out (like R12 is for automobiles), though I don't recall what is replacing it, nor when that actually started. But, this is an automotive blog, so I'll let you research that one on your own. :-)
R12 (aka "Freon"): This refrigerant was used in the A/C systems for ALL U.S.A.-bound vehicles, through Model Year 1992. (Europe may have switched away from R12 even earlier, but I do not recall.) If you remember having a family car with A/C during the 1980's, you probably also remember the way it would darn near freeze your skin off. Ah, refreshing! Right? But, R12 was soon discovered for being a *huge* culprit in destroying Earth's protective Ozone layer. So, it had to go. And we replaced it with...
R134a: This refrigerant came on to the scene like a superhero, ready to replace that environmental villain called R12. Starting in Model Year 1994, R12 was completely banned from usage. R134a was the ONLY acceptable refrigerant for automobiles. Okay, maybe the R134a stuff doesn't freeze your skin off the way R12 did (IF you're old enough to really remember the difference!), but at least we aren't killing our planet like we were before.
[SIDEBAR: R134a, while better than R12, is also causing problems with our climate. Beginning in 2011, Europe is banning R134a (aka HFC-134a) from being used in all new cars. The proposed substitute is HFO-1234yf, which is reportedly compatible with R134. They get along nicely, so there is no fear about mixing them. But, we can discuss that new refrigerant when it actually hits the U.S.A.'s market. Word is, select Chevy models will have it in MY2013. See for yourself on Wiki: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HFO-1234yf.]
Hey, you skipped Model Year 1993!
Thanks for speaking up! Kudos to you for paying attention and catching that!
Here's the deal: From MY1992 through MY1993, vehicle manufacturers were able to use up remaining components for R12 systems in a 'phase out' method. Once they started production on MY1994 vehicles, they *had* to be completely using R134a components and refrigerant. Every manufacturer seemed to take a different approach to the phase-based transition. Some opted to start certain factories as early as 1992, while others picked different transition points in MY1993. I think some even waited until the very first MY1994 auto to launch the R134a systems. I'm sure they all had their own reasons for the strategies they chose.
How to tell which refrigerant your vehicle takes:
1. What model year is it?
a. 1994 and newer: From the factory w/ R134a
b. 1992-93: Check the sticker (see below for details).
c. 1991 and older: From the factory w/ R12, but may have been changed. Check the sticker.
2. What does the sticker say?
a. Lift your hood and prop it up, if needed.
b. Look for the sticker/decal that says "This vehicle conforms to XXXX model year emissions standards..."
c. On that same decal, it should mention whether the factory put in R12 or R134a refrigerant.
d. If that decal said R12, look around to see if there is another, newer sticker saying "Retrofitted on [date]. If so, yours has been changed to R134a.
3. What do the caps of the fittings look like?
a. Take a quick look at one of your tires. Look at the valve stem (where you add air and check the pressure) and make a mental note of what that cap looks like. It will be plastic, black (or maybe green).
b. Now go back to your engine compartment. Glance around the top perimeter. Do you see anything that looks like your valve stem's cap? If so, that's an R12 fitting. Don't see it? Keep reading!
c. Keep looking around the top perimeter (picture frame of the under-hood area). Do you see any fittings with a red or blue cap? This will be closer to the diameter of a nickel or a quarter. If you see one of these (they are sometimes in hard-to-find areas, even at the bottom of the engine), then you have R134a.
4. If you get frustrated, by all means ask someone to help you! A fresh set of eyeballs alone may be all you need. Otherwise, pull out your owner's manual (they should at least mention where the low side is), a repair manual, or go to your friendly quality auto parts store. They won't put the refrigerant in for you, but they *will* help you to identify which kind you need.
WARNING: R12 + R134a = *HUGE* POTENTIAL FOR EXPLOSION!!!
You've heard of the major feud between the Hatfields and the McCoys, right? Well, these two refrigerant gases are exponentially worse when mixed together! Seriously! So, please, if you are ever in doubt, just turn the task over to a professional. It is *not* worth risking the lives and limbs of you and everyone around you, just to save a few dollars.
A Quick Word on Retrofitting...
Retrofitting is when an R12 system is converted over to an R134a-compatible system. The *last* step of this process is to attach 'adapter fittings' to the old R12 fittings. But, the first step is to have all remaining traces of R12 vacuumed out by a special machine. And only someone with a license can do that, so you MUST go to a licensed repair shop to have that done.
Yes, 'Retrofit Kits' are available in stores. Yes, my store sells them also (currently around $60 + tax). Yes, you can technically purchase one of these kits (which include the adapter fittings) and install it yourself. They do seem to have pretty clear step-by-step directions on the package.
BUT
No, I will not provide those kinds of directions on this blog. No, I will not recommend nor endorse that an unlicensed DIY'er uses such a kit to update an R12 system. In fact, if someone comes in to purchase such a kit, then has to ask how to use it, I generally direct them to have a shop do it. It is safer for the customer, their friends, their neighbors - truly, EVERYONE - that way.
As they say, "buyer beware".
That covers another sizable lesson for today. Hey, air conditioning is a sizable topic! But now you are better equipped to know which refrigerant you need, why you can't mix them, and when to raise the white flag that says "I need help".
Until next time, remember the Golden Rule... not only good for people, but your auto too!
-PPM
Since our last gathering, the refrigerant (or as many say, "freon") sales at my store have remained incredibly high. Given our weather this hot summer season, that's not at all surprising. But we also *still* get a large portion of customers who don't know which refrigerant their vehicle takes, or why it even matters. If it wasn't so dangerous to confuse them all, we (store employees) wouldn't have a panic attack every time someone tried to mix them. [Cue "Home Alone" scream: Aaaaaaagggggghhhhhhh!!!!]
First things first: It's called "refrigerant", not "freon".
But, I suppose that misnomer will never really change. I liken that to all 'flying disc toys' being called 'Frisbees' (even if not made by the Frisbee toy company). Or Southerners calling all sodas/colas/pop "Coke"... then clarifying "Pepsi", "7-Up", "Diet Coke", etc. for someone's specific carbonated drink choice. When a product reaches a certain popularity level, it tends to be the 'face and name' of the category it represents. Since the refrigerant named R12 was commonly known as "freon", that moniker has also been applied to other refrigerants.
Good to note: The many refrigerants that exist.
Just off the top of my head, I can name 3 refrigerants: R12, R22 and R134a. I'm quite certain others exist, but for the purposes of this article we only need to mention these three.
R22 is NOT an automotive grade of refrigerant. It's use is primarily confined to refrigerator/freezer units. (Yes, as in cold food storage!) I am not certain, but R22 may have also been used in A/C units for buildings. I know *some* type of refrigerant is used, either R22 or its replacement. Actually, I believe R22 is being phased out (like R12 is for automobiles), though I don't recall what is replacing it, nor when that actually started. But, this is an automotive blog, so I'll let you research that one on your own. :-)
R12 (aka "Freon"): This refrigerant was used in the A/C systems for ALL U.S.A.-bound vehicles, through Model Year 1992. (Europe may have switched away from R12 even earlier, but I do not recall.) If you remember having a family car with A/C during the 1980's, you probably also remember the way it would darn near freeze your skin off. Ah, refreshing! Right? But, R12 was soon discovered for being a *huge* culprit in destroying Earth's protective Ozone layer. So, it had to go. And we replaced it with...
R134a: This refrigerant came on to the scene like a superhero, ready to replace that environmental villain called R12. Starting in Model Year 1994, R12 was completely banned from usage. R134a was the ONLY acceptable refrigerant for automobiles. Okay, maybe the R134a stuff doesn't freeze your skin off the way R12 did (IF you're old enough to really remember the difference!), but at least we aren't killing our planet like we were before.
[SIDEBAR: R134a, while better than R12, is also causing problems with our climate. Beginning in 2011, Europe is banning R134a (aka HFC-134a) from being used in all new cars. The proposed substitute is HFO-1234yf, which is reportedly compatible with R134. They get along nicely, so there is no fear about mixing them. But, we can discuss that new refrigerant when it actually hits the U.S.A.'s market. Word is, select Chevy models will have it in MY2013. See for yourself on Wiki: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HFO-1234yf.]
Hey, you skipped Model Year 1993!
Thanks for speaking up! Kudos to you for paying attention and catching that!
Here's the deal: From MY1992 through MY1993, vehicle manufacturers were able to use up remaining components for R12 systems in a 'phase out' method. Once they started production on MY1994 vehicles, they *had* to be completely using R134a components and refrigerant. Every manufacturer seemed to take a different approach to the phase-based transition. Some opted to start certain factories as early as 1992, while others picked different transition points in MY1993. I think some even waited until the very first MY1994 auto to launch the R134a systems. I'm sure they all had their own reasons for the strategies they chose.
How to tell which refrigerant your vehicle takes:
1. What model year is it?
a. 1994 and newer: From the factory w/ R134a
b. 1992-93: Check the sticker (see below for details).
c. 1991 and older: From the factory w/ R12, but may have been changed. Check the sticker.
2. What does the sticker say?
a. Lift your hood and prop it up, if needed.
b. Look for the sticker/decal that says "This vehicle conforms to XXXX model year emissions standards..."
c. On that same decal, it should mention whether the factory put in R12 or R134a refrigerant.
d. If that decal said R12, look around to see if there is another, newer sticker saying "Retrofitted on [date]. If so, yours has been changed to R134a.
3. What do the caps of the fittings look like?
a. Take a quick look at one of your tires. Look at the valve stem (where you add air and check the pressure) and make a mental note of what that cap looks like. It will be plastic, black (or maybe green).
b. Now go back to your engine compartment. Glance around the top perimeter. Do you see anything that looks like your valve stem's cap? If so, that's an R12 fitting. Don't see it? Keep reading!
c. Keep looking around the top perimeter (picture frame of the under-hood area). Do you see any fittings with a red or blue cap? This will be closer to the diameter of a nickel or a quarter. If you see one of these (they are sometimes in hard-to-find areas, even at the bottom of the engine), then you have R134a.
4. If you get frustrated, by all means ask someone to help you! A fresh set of eyeballs alone may be all you need. Otherwise, pull out your owner's manual (they should at least mention where the low side is), a repair manual, or go to your friendly quality auto parts store. They won't put the refrigerant in for you, but they *will* help you to identify which kind you need.
WARNING: R12 + R134a = *HUGE* POTENTIAL FOR EXPLOSION!!!
You've heard of the major feud between the Hatfields and the McCoys, right? Well, these two refrigerant gases are exponentially worse when mixed together! Seriously! So, please, if you are ever in doubt, just turn the task over to a professional. It is *not* worth risking the lives and limbs of you and everyone around you, just to save a few dollars.
A Quick Word on Retrofitting...
Retrofitting is when an R12 system is converted over to an R134a-compatible system. The *last* step of this process is to attach 'adapter fittings' to the old R12 fittings. But, the first step is to have all remaining traces of R12 vacuumed out by a special machine. And only someone with a license can do that, so you MUST go to a licensed repair shop to have that done.
Yes, 'Retrofit Kits' are available in stores. Yes, my store sells them also (currently around $60 + tax). Yes, you can technically purchase one of these kits (which include the adapter fittings) and install it yourself. They do seem to have pretty clear step-by-step directions on the package.
BUT
No, I will not provide those kinds of directions on this blog. No, I will not recommend nor endorse that an unlicensed DIY'er uses such a kit to update an R12 system. In fact, if someone comes in to purchase such a kit, then has to ask how to use it, I generally direct them to have a shop do it. It is safer for the customer, their friends, their neighbors - truly, EVERYONE - that way.
As they say, "buyer beware".
That covers another sizable lesson for today. Hey, air conditioning is a sizable topic! But now you are better equipped to know which refrigerant you need, why you can't mix them, and when to raise the white flag that says "I need help".
Until next time, remember the Golden Rule... not only good for people, but your auto too!
-PPM
05 July 2012
A Primer on Automotive A/C
Hello, again, Readers!
I hope all of you had a safe and fun 4th of July! With the vast majority of the USA having temperatures in (or flirting with) triple-digits, air conditioning (A/C) systems are a hot topic right now. [No pun intended.] If your vehicle's A/C system doesn't cool you off the way you think it should, then you should have it checked out, pronto!
TIME OUT!
Did my last statement put you in panic mode, as you saw a herd of dollar signs do a flash-mob fly-by? Yes, A/C service and repair *can* be very expensive. And the less you know about the topic, the easier it is for you to feel like you're being scammed. I get it! So, let me try to give you a (hopefully brief!) primer on the matter.
[Cue Zach Morris:] TIME IN!
Let's start at the very beginning... (a very fine place to start...)
A/C stands for Air *Conditioning*
The way your A/C system works:
1. Draws the (hot/warm) air already in the cabin - where the occupants are - into the A/C circuit.
2. Pushes the hot/warm air through the various hoses and 'stops', reducing the temperature and moisture as it goes.
3. Cycle the cooled-down, drier (read: conditioned) air back to the cabin, where the occupants happily reap the benefits.
"But my A/C doesn't feel very cold!"
Well, that is probably very true. So, the question is whether the problem is with the system or with your perception. Hmm...
You don't need to go to any repair shop to check this out yourself. All you need is an automotive a/c thermometer, available at most decent (and even the not-so-decent) parts stores. It will look a lot like a regular cooking thermometer (you know, the ones you use to check cooked foods for temperature doneness), though some have dials that are as big as 2" in diameter - to make it easier to read quickly. In fact, a spare cooking thermometer will work just fine. (My hubby and I have used one before ourselves, since we always have 3 or 4 on hand from his culinary days.)
What you do:
1. Take the thermometer with it's case out to your auto. Remove it from the case (storage sleeve) and slip it through the holding loop at the top.
2. Stick the probe end into one of the A/C vents. Give it a moment, then read the current temperature (which is the 'ambient' or 'room' temperature of the cabin) as reported by the thermometer.
3. Start your vehicle, turn on your A/C system to the coldest setting and on 'MAX A/C' (which is the hardest it will push the conditioned air).
4. Watch the dial on the thermometer as it moves. Depending on the status of your auto and its A/C system, you should notice a drop of between 5 and 15 degrees Fahrenheit (or maybe even more).
Question: If the local weather channel says it's 90+ outside - so, 100+ in the vehicle - do you think a 5 to 15 degree drop will be very noticeable to you?
Your A/C system is a closed circuit, designed to 'condition' the air from your (assumed to be) closed cabin. If all of your windows and doors are closed and properly sealed, then the A/C system will first work to cool the original cabin air by 5-15 degrees. Once all of that air has been circulated and 'conditioned', the system will work to cool it down by *another* 5-15 degrees.
Example:
Your parked car has a cabin temperature of 100 degrees when you get in. You crank the A/C on, which progressively conditions all of the original air down to 85 (if 15 degree drop) to 95 (5 degree drop). Once that is done - and assuming you leave the A/C on - the system will continue to work on the air for another round, drawing it down to 70 (if 15 degree drop) to 90 (5 degree drop).
Depending on the efficiency of your vehicle's system, it may take almost 2 to 3 or 4 cycles for you 'to feel the cold'. Sobering thought, right?
"Is it busted?"
That depends on what your test results showed.
If the drop was consistently 15 degrees, you simply need to adjust your perceptions, taking into account the ambient temperature and what you've learned in this article.
If the drop was consistently 5 degrees - even on the MAX A/C setting - that is a problem, but probably not a major one. You may simply need an "A/C Evac(uation) and Recharge", which I believe most shops are quoting for well under $100 out-the-door. (I heard one of the national-chain stores we service quoting $69 plus tax and shop fees.)
Now, if the poor performance was because you were *low* on refrigerant, I want you to remember something very important: The A/C system is a *closed* circuit. Therefor, being low means at least some of it leaked out. Where the leak source is, will determine how pricey the repair bill will be. But we'll discuss that in the next edition.
Alright, loyal Readers, that should be enough to get you started in the right direction. Yes, the heat and humidity can make it incredibly hard to be patient and objective, especially when you feel like screaming, "All I want is for my car to keep me cool!" It is my hope that I have given you enough information, to at least hold off on panicking until you can see if the situation truly warrants it.
Until we meet again, try to stay cool... and remember that your vehicle also deserves the Golden Rule.
PPM
P.S.: Yes, the Zach Morris mention was a "Saved by the Bell" reference. Kudos if you caught that!
I hope all of you had a safe and fun 4th of July! With the vast majority of the USA having temperatures in (or flirting with) triple-digits, air conditioning (A/C) systems are a hot topic right now. [No pun intended.] If your vehicle's A/C system doesn't cool you off the way you think it should, then you should have it checked out, pronto!
TIME OUT!
Did my last statement put you in panic mode, as you saw a herd of dollar signs do a flash-mob fly-by? Yes, A/C service and repair *can* be very expensive. And the less you know about the topic, the easier it is for you to feel like you're being scammed. I get it! So, let me try to give you a (hopefully brief!) primer on the matter.
[Cue Zach Morris:] TIME IN!
Let's start at the very beginning... (a very fine place to start...)
A/C stands for Air *Conditioning*
The way your A/C system works:
1. Draws the (hot/warm) air already in the cabin - where the occupants are - into the A/C circuit.
2. Pushes the hot/warm air through the various hoses and 'stops', reducing the temperature and moisture as it goes.
3. Cycle the cooled-down, drier (read: conditioned) air back to the cabin, where the occupants happily reap the benefits.
"But my A/C doesn't feel very cold!"
Well, that is probably very true. So, the question is whether the problem is with the system or with your perception. Hmm...
You don't need to go to any repair shop to check this out yourself. All you need is an automotive a/c thermometer, available at most decent (and even the not-so-decent) parts stores. It will look a lot like a regular cooking thermometer (you know, the ones you use to check cooked foods for temperature doneness), though some have dials that are as big as 2" in diameter - to make it easier to read quickly. In fact, a spare cooking thermometer will work just fine. (My hubby and I have used one before ourselves, since we always have 3 or 4 on hand from his culinary days.)
What you do:
1. Take the thermometer with it's case out to your auto. Remove it from the case (storage sleeve) and slip it through the holding loop at the top.
2. Stick the probe end into one of the A/C vents. Give it a moment, then read the current temperature (which is the 'ambient' or 'room' temperature of the cabin) as reported by the thermometer.
3. Start your vehicle, turn on your A/C system to the coldest setting and on 'MAX A/C' (which is the hardest it will push the conditioned air).
4. Watch the dial on the thermometer as it moves. Depending on the status of your auto and its A/C system, you should notice a drop of between 5 and 15 degrees Fahrenheit (or maybe even more).
NOTE: Remember that a closed-up car will always get hotter than the outside air! If it's 90 outside, don't be surprised if the car is more like 100+, especially if it's been in direct sunlight. Hence all the warnings about leaving kids and/or pets in parked cars...
Question: If the local weather channel says it's 90+ outside - so, 100+ in the vehicle - do you think a 5 to 15 degree drop will be very noticeable to you?
Your A/C system is a closed circuit, designed to 'condition' the air from your (assumed to be) closed cabin. If all of your windows and doors are closed and properly sealed, then the A/C system will first work to cool the original cabin air by 5-15 degrees. Once all of that air has been circulated and 'conditioned', the system will work to cool it down by *another* 5-15 degrees.
Example:
Your parked car has a cabin temperature of 100 degrees when you get in. You crank the A/C on, which progressively conditions all of the original air down to 85 (if 15 degree drop) to 95 (5 degree drop). Once that is done - and assuming you leave the A/C on - the system will continue to work on the air for another round, drawing it down to 70 (if 15 degree drop) to 90 (5 degree drop).
Depending on the efficiency of your vehicle's system, it may take almost 2 to 3 or 4 cycles for you 'to feel the cold'. Sobering thought, right?
"Is it busted?"
That depends on what your test results showed.
If the drop was consistently 15 degrees, you simply need to adjust your perceptions, taking into account the ambient temperature and what you've learned in this article.
If the drop was consistently 5 degrees - even on the MAX A/C setting - that is a problem, but probably not a major one. You may simply need an "A/C Evac(uation) and Recharge", which I believe most shops are quoting for well under $100 out-the-door. (I heard one of the national-chain stores we service quoting $69 plus tax and shop fees.)
Now, if the poor performance was because you were *low* on refrigerant, I want you to remember something very important: The A/C system is a *closed* circuit. Therefor, being low means at least some of it leaked out. Where the leak source is, will determine how pricey the repair bill will be. But we'll discuss that in the next edition.
Alright, loyal Readers, that should be enough to get you started in the right direction. Yes, the heat and humidity can make it incredibly hard to be patient and objective, especially when you feel like screaming, "All I want is for my car to keep me cool!" It is my hope that I have given you enough information, to at least hold off on panicking until you can see if the situation truly warrants it.
Until we meet again, try to stay cool... and remember that your vehicle also deserves the Golden Rule.
PPM
P.S.: Yes, the Zach Morris mention was a "Saved by the Bell" reference. Kudos if you caught that!
14 May 2012
How's Your 'Fuel Thermometer'?
Nice to have you back, Readers!
Let me guess: You're confused by the title, aren't you? Keep reading, and you'll soon see what this edition is all about.
In the auto parts business, we get calls from a wide variety of customers, with an equally varied degree of car knowledge. Over the weekend, my boss fielded the call of a rather confused customer. He was so caught off-guard by the customer's thought process, that he relayed the story to us after the fact (in case we faced a similar situation). Here's the gist of the conversation:
Customer: Hi, I need a new 'fuel thermometer' for my Ford Fusion.
My Boss: What is the car doing to make you think that?
Customer: Well, I put $10 in gas in the car, and the needle only went up to the 1/4 [full] mark.
[At this point my boss looked up a fuel pump/sending unit assembly - probably $300 or so, if not more - and quoted it to the gentleman.]
Customer: Man, that's a lot! Uhhhh, maybe I'll just put some more gas in it.
My Boss: Okay, that sounds like a good place to start.
Now, let me point out a few things here:
1. The gentleman stated he had put $10 in gas in his car.
2. Gas prices in the area were ~$3.579 to $3.699 per gallon.
3. Math check: He added less than 3 gallons!
4. The Fusion (model year unknown) holds ~17 to 18 gallons.
5. The customer said his fuel needle only showed 1/4 full.
6. Math check #2: 18gal * 1/4 = 4.5gal. (Amount of gas in his '1/4 full' tank.)
So, if he was on "E" (or very near it) and added less than 3gal, it makes sense that he'd be lucky to reach the 1/4 mark!
You know, I am actually old enough to remember when a big stink was raised locally, over gas prices reaching $1.00 per gallon. I have vivid memories of driving my stepmom's Horizon during (junior year? of) high school, seeing the brand new Thornton's with its light-up price board that came ready for 'triple digit' figures, and noticing an employee was adding a '1' in front of the decimal. I distinctly remember the angry honks and shouts from cars that cruised by, voicing the driver's displeasure.
But, that was about 20 years ago. And, though I remember many people mentioning a weekly budget of a '$10 tank' for fuel, we are quite a far cry from those times. Your weekly fuel budget is probably at least $35 to $40, if not more. And that's mostly just for commuting to and from work/school and home! Let's face facts: Our fuel budgets are jacked up due to jacked up prices, not necessarily increased fuel consumption.
Oh, and by the way...
If *your* fuel guage does start acting suspiciously, please remember that it reports the fuel *level*, not the *temperature*. The part you may need will be called a 'fuel level sensor' or 'fuel sending unit'. It is generally a 'float arm' attached to your vehicle's fuel pump assembly, which is inside the tank. And most of the time, you wind up buying the entire fuel pump assembly to get it (hence the hefty price tag mentioned above).
Until next time, be sure to give your vehicle the Golden Rule treatment. But also remember to stop, think, and apply a bit of logic to any 'problem' that seems to arise.
See you again soon!
PPM
Let me guess: You're confused by the title, aren't you? Keep reading, and you'll soon see what this edition is all about.
In the auto parts business, we get calls from a wide variety of customers, with an equally varied degree of car knowledge. Over the weekend, my boss fielded the call of a rather confused customer. He was so caught off-guard by the customer's thought process, that he relayed the story to us after the fact (in case we faced a similar situation). Here's the gist of the conversation:
Customer: Hi, I need a new 'fuel thermometer' for my Ford Fusion.
My Boss: What is the car doing to make you think that?
Customer: Well, I put $10 in gas in the car, and the needle only went up to the 1/4 [full] mark.
[At this point my boss looked up a fuel pump/sending unit assembly - probably $300 or so, if not more - and quoted it to the gentleman.]
Customer: Man, that's a lot! Uhhhh, maybe I'll just put some more gas in it.
My Boss: Okay, that sounds like a good place to start.
Now, let me point out a few things here:
1. The gentleman stated he had put $10 in gas in his car.
2. Gas prices in the area were ~$3.579 to $3.699 per gallon.
3. Math check: He added less than 3 gallons!
4. The Fusion (model year unknown) holds ~17 to 18 gallons.
5. The customer said his fuel needle only showed 1/4 full.
6. Math check #2: 18gal * 1/4 = 4.5gal. (Amount of gas in his '1/4 full' tank.)
So, if he was on "E" (or very near it) and added less than 3gal, it makes sense that he'd be lucky to reach the 1/4 mark!
You know, I am actually old enough to remember when a big stink was raised locally, over gas prices reaching $1.00 per gallon. I have vivid memories of driving my stepmom's Horizon during (junior year? of) high school, seeing the brand new Thornton's with its light-up price board that came ready for 'triple digit' figures, and noticing an employee was adding a '1' in front of the decimal. I distinctly remember the angry honks and shouts from cars that cruised by, voicing the driver's displeasure.
But, that was about 20 years ago. And, though I remember many people mentioning a weekly budget of a '$10 tank' for fuel, we are quite a far cry from those times. Your weekly fuel budget is probably at least $35 to $40, if not more. And that's mostly just for commuting to and from work/school and home! Let's face facts: Our fuel budgets are jacked up due to jacked up prices, not necessarily increased fuel consumption.
Oh, and by the way...
If *your* fuel guage does start acting suspiciously, please remember that it reports the fuel *level*, not the *temperature*. The part you may need will be called a 'fuel level sensor' or 'fuel sending unit'. It is generally a 'float arm' attached to your vehicle's fuel pump assembly, which is inside the tank. And most of the time, you wind up buying the entire fuel pump assembly to get it (hence the hefty price tag mentioned above).
Until next time, be sure to give your vehicle the Golden Rule treatment. But also remember to stop, think, and apply a bit of logic to any 'problem' that seems to arise.
See you again soon!
PPM
03 May 2012
Tips for Easier Records-Keeping
Hello again, Readers!
In my last post, I promised a future edition that focused on making your record-keeping easier. I decided to heed the adage of 'no time like the present', so we will cover that very topic today. Actually, I did already touch on this very topic back in November 2011, with the post "Warranty Enforcement 101". Tip #3 of that post gave a quick overview of how to preserve receipts for future warranty claims. This post will go deeper, including more details about that and a step-by-step filing system.
First things first:
How many vehicles do you own? Write them down on a list. Be sure also to count motorcycles and RV's in the mix. While you're at it, you might consider adding any watercraft (boats, jetski's, etc.), ATV's, mopeds/scooters, and lawn equipment that you have. Pretty much, if it has an engine, you want it on your list. Yes, this is daunting right now, but the work will pay off tremendously. I promise you this!
Get your supplies:
For every vehicle on your list, you will need a 1" hard-bound binder. These usually have a clear plastic cover around them, that allows you to slip a title page in the outside pouch. Make sure yours do, too. If you own a vehicle long enough, you may need to get a larger binder later; for now, the 1" size is the way to go.
If anything else on your list has an ID number (boats, ATV's, etc), I recommend using the 'vehicle' binder method. When you eventually sell such an item, you will get better offers by having this book available as part of the sale.
All of your small engine/lawn equipment (push mower, weed whacker, chainsaw, snowblower, leaf-blower) can generally share one binder. I would recommend a 2" binder for this shared-binder category. If you have a riding mower, you can either do the 1" dedicated binder method for it, or you can put it in the very front of the lawn equipment's shared binder. Since I believe they have an ID number, I would recommend a dedicated binder, but that is your decision to make.
Aside from the binders mentioned above, you will also need the following:
Clear page protectors
Tabbed binder dividers
Plain printer paper
Permanent Marker or Self-adhesive labels (your choice - labels can be made by a label-gun)
Setting-Up Your System:
1. Create a 'Vehicle Maintenance Log' sheet.
a. In lines across the top, leave open fields for the vehicle's details (year, make, model, engine, color, VIN). Leave enough space to fill in the blanks by hand. Be sure to include a "Page __" spot.
b. Add a simple table below this. Three columns are all you need: Date, Odometer/Mileage, Description of Repair/Maintenance. The table should have as many lines as will fit neatly on the page.
c. Print off 2-3 copies for each vehicle (and items that have an ID number).
In my last post, I promised a future edition that focused on making your record-keeping easier. I decided to heed the adage of 'no time like the present', so we will cover that very topic today. Actually, I did already touch on this very topic back in November 2011, with the post "Warranty Enforcement 101". Tip #3 of that post gave a quick overview of how to preserve receipts for future warranty claims. This post will go deeper, including more details about that and a step-by-step filing system.
First things first:
How many vehicles do you own? Write them down on a list. Be sure also to count motorcycles and RV's in the mix. While you're at it, you might consider adding any watercraft (boats, jetski's, etc.), ATV's, mopeds/scooters, and lawn equipment that you have. Pretty much, if it has an engine, you want it on your list. Yes, this is daunting right now, but the work will pay off tremendously. I promise you this!
Get your supplies:
For every vehicle on your list, you will need a 1" hard-bound binder. These usually have a clear plastic cover around them, that allows you to slip a title page in the outside pouch. Make sure yours do, too. If you own a vehicle long enough, you may need to get a larger binder later; for now, the 1" size is the way to go.
If anything else on your list has an ID number (boats, ATV's, etc), I recommend using the 'vehicle' binder method. When you eventually sell such an item, you will get better offers by having this book available as part of the sale.
All of your small engine/lawn equipment (push mower, weed whacker, chainsaw, snowblower, leaf-blower) can generally share one binder. I would recommend a 2" binder for this shared-binder category. If you have a riding mower, you can either do the 1" dedicated binder method for it, or you can put it in the very front of the lawn equipment's shared binder. Since I believe they have an ID number, I would recommend a dedicated binder, but that is your decision to make.
Aside from the binders mentioned above, you will also need the following:
Clear page protectors
Tabbed binder dividers
Plain printer paper
Permanent Marker or Self-adhesive labels (your choice - labels can be made by a label-gun)
Setting-Up Your System:
1. Create a 'Vehicle Maintenance Log' sheet.
a. In lines across the top, leave open fields for the vehicle's details (year, make, model, engine, color, VIN). Leave enough space to fill in the blanks by hand. Be sure to include a "Page __" spot.
b. Add a simple table below this. Three columns are all you need: Date, Odometer/Mileage, Description of Repair/Maintenance. The table should have as many lines as will fit neatly on the page.
c. Print off 2-3 copies for each vehicle (and items that have an ID number).
2. Choose a vehicle on your list. Gather a 1" binder, 10 page protectors and 3 dividers.
3. Using your computer (or any type-and-print device), create a title page for the binder. Be sure to include the color, year, make, model and VIN on this page. Print this out and slip it into the outside front pouch.
4. Fill in the appropriate ID information on the Log sheet you created. Place "Page 1" face-up in front of you, with the other 1-2 copies stacked underneath it. Insert the whole 'packet' into one of the page protectors. Place this protector and one empty protector behind the first tabbed divider.
5. Of the 8 remaining page protectors, place 4 behind each of the other tabbed dividers. Using the labels that came with them, mark the dividers this way: Maintenance Log, Parts Receipts, Repair Receipts.
6. Open the binder, thread the rings through the holes of your organized stack, then seal it up. Use permanent marker or a self-adhesive label to write the year, make, model, color and VIN (at least the last 4-8 characters of it) on the spine of the binder. Store the binder on your bookshelf.
7. Repeat steps 2-6 for the remaining vehicles on your list.
NOTE: Certain items like watercraft and lawn equipment have maintenance intervals based on 'hours used' instead of 'mileage driven'. Refer to your owner's manual to figure out which interval type you should reference on your maintenance log. I recommend creating a separate Maintenance Log that works better for these items. (Mostly, just changing 'mileage' to 'hours' on the table would work well. But you may also want to tweak the 'equipment information' portion to reflect the machinery's details.)
Maintaining Your System:
The hard part was the set-up, so now you're on 'easy street'! Every time you do any repair or maintenance (oil and filter change, air filter change, any fluids flushed, etc):
1. Grab that vehicle's binder from the bookshelf.
2. Pull your Log out of the protector and fill in the particulars (date, miles, job description).
3. File the receipts in the appropriate section - 'repair' if you had a shop do the job, 'parts' if you got the items from a parts store and did the job yourself.
*NOTE: Consider making a photocopy of any parts store receipt before filing it.*
4. Put the binder back on the bookshelf. You're done!
As with nearly any system, the hardest part is setting it up in the first place. Once you have that done, keeping up with it is a breeze. A lot like cleaning your home: get your routine in place, don't slack off, and you will always be company-ready in 5 minutes or less. Speaking of which, I had better go now. Housekeeping duties are calling me.
Remember to keep those records well, so you can save your sanity. And treat your vehicle as well as you want it to treat you.
See you again soon!
PPM
29 April 2012
"...That Stuff is Such a Chore! *stomp* I Hate This!"
Welcome back, Readers.
My youngest turned 7 on Saturday, and we have reached the point where she often refuses to do something, because it is boring/stupid/hard/not any fun... yeah, you get the point. Lately, the refusal comes mostly when it is time for her to brush her teeth. I actually had to fight the urge to laugh the first few times she did that (when she was about 4 or 5). You see, I remember my younger brother choosing that very battle when we were young... actually, he was about 4 or 5 as well. And being the oldest (by about 2.5 years), I remember vividly how my parents so expertly handled it, and have used that tactic on my daughter myself. (I have tweeked it a bit, because she is more stubborn. But the idea is the same.)
Her: "Brushing my teeth is boring! I hate it!"
Me: "That's okay, Honey. Tell you what. You don't have to brush all of your teeth."
Her: "Really? Cool!"
Me: "Really. Just brush the teeth you want to keep."
Her: "Oh." *hesitates, thinking*
Me: "The grownup teeth you get, are your last teeth to use. They will have to last you for the rest of your life, until you are super-duper old. Whichever ones you want to have even then, those are the ones you want to brush."
Her: "What if I don't brush some of them?"
Me: "When your baby teeth fall out, the adult teeth grow in behind them. You already have some of these. If adult teeth aren't brushed and taken care of, they fall out too. No other teeth grow in their spots, and you can't chew as many hard or crunchy foods, because your teeth are your chewing power. Treat enough of your teeth badly, and you won't be able to eat anything crunchier than applesauce."
Her: "Oh. That's not fun at all. I think I'll go brush my teeth. All of them, so they all stick around."
Me: "That sounds like a great decision!"
Aside from gaining a new parenting tactic, you might be wondering: What does this have to do with vehicles? The answer is simple: Plenty!
Yes, doing Preventive Maintenance on your vehicle can be quite a chore. My young daughter considers certain routines - teeth brushing, room cleaning, etc. - to be quite a hassle as well. Many children share her opinion, on one responsibility or another. Heck, some of us never outgrow our aversions to certain tasks - especially cleaning!
But, what would happen if we chose *not* to do our "dreaded chores"? Laundry would pile up - either in clumps of dirty clothes, or piles/stacks of clean ones that never got put away. The dish cabinet would be empty, with its contents in the sink and on the counter - clean and dirty all mingling together. Dust and dirt would be everywhere, causing all who walked by to sneeze repeatedly. That's a disturbing thought, one that brings to mind the show "Hoarders", right?
Let's apply that thinking process to our vehicles. No one *likes* fueling up, but without fuel the auto won't go anywhere - not even to your work. Without fresh wiper blades and light bulbs, your chances of seeing and being seen are reduced greatly. Ignore servicing your brakes, and your vehicle won't stop properly for very long at all.
I could go on, but I think you get my point. Yes, keeping tabs on what services have been done and when can be quite the undertaking. In fact, I will offer suggestions on how to do exactly that with greater ease, in a future post. But one thing I want to bear in mind, is that your vehicle will exercise karma and the Golden Rule in dealing with you. So, if you want continuous, reliable service out of your auto, you must give it continuous, reliable preventive maintenance. If you choose to shirk your duties as the owner, your vehicle will eventually choose to shirk its duties in taking you where you want/need to go. Sobering thought, isn't it?
And now you have a better understanding of why I sign my posts the way I do.
Until next time, remember: Take care of your vehicle, the way you want it to take care of you!
PPM
My youngest turned 7 on Saturday, and we have reached the point where she often refuses to do something, because it is boring/stupid/hard/not any fun... yeah, you get the point. Lately, the refusal comes mostly when it is time for her to brush her teeth. I actually had to fight the urge to laugh the first few times she did that (when she was about 4 or 5). You see, I remember my younger brother choosing that very battle when we were young... actually, he was about 4 or 5 as well. And being the oldest (by about 2.5 years), I remember vividly how my parents so expertly handled it, and have used that tactic on my daughter myself. (I have tweeked it a bit, because she is more stubborn. But the idea is the same.)
Her: "Brushing my teeth is boring! I hate it!"
Me: "That's okay, Honey. Tell you what. You don't have to brush all of your teeth."
Her: "Really? Cool!"
Me: "Really. Just brush the teeth you want to keep."
Her: "Oh." *hesitates, thinking*
Me: "The grownup teeth you get, are your last teeth to use. They will have to last you for the rest of your life, until you are super-duper old. Whichever ones you want to have even then, those are the ones you want to brush."
Her: "What if I don't brush some of them?"
Me: "When your baby teeth fall out, the adult teeth grow in behind them. You already have some of these. If adult teeth aren't brushed and taken care of, they fall out too. No other teeth grow in their spots, and you can't chew as many hard or crunchy foods, because your teeth are your chewing power. Treat enough of your teeth badly, and you won't be able to eat anything crunchier than applesauce."
Her: "Oh. That's not fun at all. I think I'll go brush my teeth. All of them, so they all stick around."
Me: "That sounds like a great decision!"
Aside from gaining a new parenting tactic, you might be wondering: What does this have to do with vehicles? The answer is simple: Plenty!
Yes, doing Preventive Maintenance on your vehicle can be quite a chore. My young daughter considers certain routines - teeth brushing, room cleaning, etc. - to be quite a hassle as well. Many children share her opinion, on one responsibility or another. Heck, some of us never outgrow our aversions to certain tasks - especially cleaning!
But, what would happen if we chose *not* to do our "dreaded chores"? Laundry would pile up - either in clumps of dirty clothes, or piles/stacks of clean ones that never got put away. The dish cabinet would be empty, with its contents in the sink and on the counter - clean and dirty all mingling together. Dust and dirt would be everywhere, causing all who walked by to sneeze repeatedly. That's a disturbing thought, one that brings to mind the show "Hoarders", right?
Let's apply that thinking process to our vehicles. No one *likes* fueling up, but without fuel the auto won't go anywhere - not even to your work. Without fresh wiper blades and light bulbs, your chances of seeing and being seen are reduced greatly. Ignore servicing your brakes, and your vehicle won't stop properly for very long at all.
I could go on, but I think you get my point. Yes, keeping tabs on what services have been done and when can be quite the undertaking. In fact, I will offer suggestions on how to do exactly that with greater ease, in a future post. But one thing I want to bear in mind, is that your vehicle will exercise karma and the Golden Rule in dealing with you. So, if you want continuous, reliable service out of your auto, you must give it continuous, reliable preventive maintenance. If you choose to shirk your duties as the owner, your vehicle will eventually choose to shirk its duties in taking you where you want/need to go. Sobering thought, isn't it?
And now you have a better understanding of why I sign my posts the way I do.
Until next time, remember: Take care of your vehicle, the way you want it to take care of you!
PPM
05 January 2012
Hey, Reader... Check Your Battery!
Happy 2012, Readers! I pray that your Christmas and New Year celebrations were filled with all of the joy (and very little of the stress and drama) that this time of year brings.
But, stress and drama may very well be lurking on your horizon, if you haven't given your vehicle its due TLC (that's "tender, loving care", not the former singing group). As this post's title states, you need to check your vehicle's battery. If the charge (power level) on it is too low, you will have some rough days ahead - in the form of 'slow starts' and eventually 'no starts'. If this is your idea of a fun adventure on a morning that you are already rushed or running late, please raise your hand. Anyone, anyone?
Even though I can't exactly see you, Readers, I'm willing to wager that not one of you raised your hand. Despite my - at times - odd sense of 'adventure', I didn't raise my hand either. I'm glad we agree! So, how do we avoid these non-adventures? You do the following three things:
1. Look up what your auto's "OE CCA" rating is. You will find this in the owner's manual, on the battery itself (hopefully it's the factory one, otherwise double-check the spec's), or at your quality parts store when they look up a replacement for you.
NOTE: The "OE" stands for "Original Equipment", or the company that made your auto (e.g. Ford, Chevrolet, Toyota, etc.). The "CCA" stands for "Cold Cranking Amps", which is the raw power capacity of a battery at 0°F.
2. Have your battery tested to verify what CCA's it is actually producing. Many businesses (repair shops, oil change outfits, parts stores, etc.) offer this service as a 'courtesy' (read: FREE) to customers, so don't be afraid to ask. Just be sure to ask them to provide you with the actual results, so you see first hand how strong or weak your battery is.
3. Compare #2's results to what your vehicle requires (from #1). You want #2 to be *significantly* HIGHER than #1... if it isn't, your battery is due to be replaced. Why? Because the current battery has become a weakling overtime, and 'Murphy's Law' will apply very soon. Picture your battery finally screaming in a Scottish brogue, "I cahn't du'it, Cahp'n... I need more power!"
If a new battery is in your near future, I want to make a very clear point on something. I know first hand what a rotten economy we still have. Money doesn't grow on trees... I get that. Which is why I want you to be sure that the battery you purchase, will actually live up to the honor of serving you the way that it should. In a nutshell: Compare the CCA of any replacement battery offered, to the OE CCA for your vehicle!
All too often, a customer will insist on getting the 'cheapest battery that will fit'. Batteries are identified by "BCI Group Code", which classifies batteries based on their footprint (length x width), height, and terminal type (top, side or 'dual' - which is a combo). So, sure a 'cheaper' version of the same battery will 'fit' - but only size-wise. Cheaper batteries have a shorter warranty period for a reason: They lack the extra power capacity that the ones with longer warranties possess. For true purchase satisfaction, make sure the BCI number *and* the CCA rating match your OE spec's!
As an aside...
No, Readers, you are not imagining things. I did manage three different movie references in this post: The title was inspired by a scene in Sister Act I. There was a nod to Ben Stein's character in Ferris Bueller's Day Off. And - of course - the trekker/trekkie in me couldn't resist the Scotty quote. :-)
Until we meet again, remember to take care of your vehicle only as well and for as long, as you want it to take care of you.
PPM
But, stress and drama may very well be lurking on your horizon, if you haven't given your vehicle its due TLC (that's "tender, loving care", not the former singing group). As this post's title states, you need to check your vehicle's battery. If the charge (power level) on it is too low, you will have some rough days ahead - in the form of 'slow starts' and eventually 'no starts'. If this is your idea of a fun adventure on a morning that you are already rushed or running late, please raise your hand. Anyone, anyone?
Even though I can't exactly see you, Readers, I'm willing to wager that not one of you raised your hand. Despite my - at times - odd sense of 'adventure', I didn't raise my hand either. I'm glad we agree! So, how do we avoid these non-adventures? You do the following three things:
1. Look up what your auto's "OE CCA" rating is. You will find this in the owner's manual, on the battery itself (hopefully it's the factory one, otherwise double-check the spec's), or at your quality parts store when they look up a replacement for you.
NOTE: The "OE" stands for "Original Equipment", or the company that made your auto (e.g. Ford, Chevrolet, Toyota, etc.). The "CCA" stands for "Cold Cranking Amps", which is the raw power capacity of a battery at 0°F.
2. Have your battery tested to verify what CCA's it is actually producing. Many businesses (repair shops, oil change outfits, parts stores, etc.) offer this service as a 'courtesy' (read: FREE) to customers, so don't be afraid to ask. Just be sure to ask them to provide you with the actual results, so you see first hand how strong or weak your battery is.
3. Compare #2's results to what your vehicle requires (from #1). You want #2 to be *significantly* HIGHER than #1... if it isn't, your battery is due to be replaced. Why? Because the current battery has become a weakling overtime, and 'Murphy's Law' will apply very soon. Picture your battery finally screaming in a Scottish brogue, "I cahn't du'it, Cahp'n... I need more power!"
If a new battery is in your near future, I want to make a very clear point on something. I know first hand what a rotten economy we still have. Money doesn't grow on trees... I get that. Which is why I want you to be sure that the battery you purchase, will actually live up to the honor of serving you the way that it should. In a nutshell: Compare the CCA of any replacement battery offered, to the OE CCA for your vehicle!
All too often, a customer will insist on getting the 'cheapest battery that will fit'. Batteries are identified by "BCI Group Code", which classifies batteries based on their footprint (length x width), height, and terminal type (top, side or 'dual' - which is a combo). So, sure a 'cheaper' version of the same battery will 'fit' - but only size-wise. Cheaper batteries have a shorter warranty period for a reason: They lack the extra power capacity that the ones with longer warranties possess. For true purchase satisfaction, make sure the BCI number *and* the CCA rating match your OE spec's!
As an aside...
No, Readers, you are not imagining things. I did manage three different movie references in this post: The title was inspired by a scene in Sister Act I. There was a nod to Ben Stein's character in Ferris Bueller's Day Off. And - of course - the trekker/trekkie in me couldn't resist the Scotty quote. :-)
Until we meet again, remember to take care of your vehicle only as well and for as long, as you want it to take care of you.
PPM
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