Good Morning, Readers! [Ok, this didn't post until exactly 12:00 ET...]
I worked until closing time at my store last night, which gave me a great idea for today's blog post. I had a gentleman call during the last business hour, wanting a quote on an "air-filter-oxygen-sensor" for his F150. I pulled up our catalog system and plugged in his truck's information, then verified what part I heard him request. The problem, dear Readers, was that the part name he mentioned didn't make sense. I asked him if he had needed *two* parts - an air filter AND an oxygen sensor - or just one. He told me 'one'.
I brainstormed for a moment, then noticed he had someone in the background telling him what to say. It sounded like that person was trying to read something that was jotted down for them, but perhaps in a short-hand way. A-ha! I knew that some oxygen sensors were listed as "A/F (Oxygen) Sensors", for a technical reason that is not always explained well to the public. So, I suspected that the "A/F" was misinterpreted as 'air filter' - which is a common old-school abbreviation that even I still use - when really it was just an oxygen sensor. I asked the gentleman if the part was written down as "A/F", and he confirmed. Whew!
At that point, I went ahead and looked up the oxygen sensor, but also asked if he was basing this repair on a code. He said yes, that his truck was giving him a code of "P0171". I went to my reference website, where I saw this code was "System Too Lean (Bank 1)". Hmm. That said nothing about the Oxygen Sensor, just that the Bank 1 (#1 cylinder side) of his engine was not getting enough fuel. I asked him if he had noticed any performance issues with his truck. At first he said no, but then he qualified it with, "well, sometimes... when I'm on the interstate... but it doesn't last very long." While I was at it, I asked him if there were any other codes, and he said one other came up, "P0174". By the way, that code is "System Too Lean (Bank 2)". (Bank 2 = the non-#1 cylinder side of the engine.) Double-hmm.
I went ahead and quoted him an upstream oxygen sensor anyway - just in case - but I explained to him a few of things:
1. A/F oxygen sensor = special type of oxygen sensor. It measures the amount of oxygen in the exhaust.
2. All vehicles have an 'ideal ratio (mix)' of air to fuel. Think of the 'mixed drink' scotch-and-soda.
3. "System Too Lean" = light on the fuel/heavy on the air. Think of scotch-and-soda, light on scotch/heavy on soda.
NOTE: "System Too Rich" = heavy on fuel/light on air. Think of 'scotch-and-soda, easy on the soda'. I hear the drink is good - I'm sure it has a good burn - but the fuel/air mix version means you're burning excess fuel!
The blessing of computers ('brain boxes') in vehicles, is that they are great message-takers and give you those messages in the form of codes. The curse is, you have to know not only what those codes represent, but also what they truly mean. Ok, I heard that collective, "Huh?!" Read on; you will see what I mean.
Let's review...
My client called in for pricing on an oxygen sensor, based (partially!) on a code somebody, somewhere had retrieved from his F150 for him. But the code he gave me was for a 'lean' system condition on one side of his engine. After further discussion, another code mentioned the other side of his engine was running 'lean' as well. What are the chances of him needing two oxygen sensors at the same time, with codes that don't mention them being bad?
Most vehicles driving around these days have either three or four oxygen sensors. The F150 in this scenario had an engine with eight cylinders, shaped in a "V" with four cylinders on each side. Hence, the term "V8" applies. In the V-shaped engines, each half of the V has its own exhaust manifold, which remain separate until they merge in the exhaust pipe system. Each exhaust manifold (the 'banks' referenced above) has an oxygen sensor, who's job is to report on the oxygen levels (or air/fuel mixture) in that specific side of the engine. Since these sensors are always before the catalytic converter(s), they are labeled 'upstream'. Sensors appearing *after* the converter(s) are labeled 'downstream'. [If you consider comparing the flow of exhaust gas to the flow of liquid water is odd, you aren't alone!]
Now, the gentleman's truck was giving codes about 'lean' burning conditions. Based on what information? Well, that would be the measurements provided by his two 'upstream' oxygen sensors. They weren't faulty; they both detected a decreased fuel presence in the exhaust mixture, and reported that situation accurately. His engine was being starved (to a degree) of fuel!
After further discussion, the gentleman revealed that he hadn't changed his fuel filter in about three years. I advised him to start with a fresh filter - and to replace it every 12- 24 months, depending on driving mileage/conditions. He also admitted that he hadn't ran a fuel treatment in almost as long, so I recommended he run *one* through at the same time. With all of the build up of contaminants in his filter alone, there may also be build up in the rest of the fuel delivery system. But, using fuel cleaners too often - or too high a concentration, or even worse, both - can wreak havoc on your fuel pump. So, I cautioned him to use only one treatment and then assessing the progress from that point. I even offered to clear those codes off for him when the repair was done, so he could have a 'fresh start' to his computer's message system.
The gentleman expressed gratitude for my thoroughness in solving his true problem, and asked what the store hours and my hours were. It sounds like I have a loyal customer waiting to see me tomorrow morning. Hmm, I wonder if he read any of my earlier blog posts...
Drive aware, Readers!
22 September 2011
16 September 2011
Fuel Station Guide: Self-Service Effort, Full-Service Results
Greetings, Readers!
Being in my early-to-mid-thirties, I am probably among the last of the "Gen-X'ers" to actually remember full-service gas stations. Do you remember those? Just to make sure we are on the same page, let me briefly explain.
Unlike the majority of fuel centers of today, gas stations used to be staffed with attendants who would not only pump your gas for you, but would also conduct 'courtesy services'. These extra services included more than just cleaning your windshield; the attendant would also check your fluid levels, check/adjust your tire pressure, and visually inspect certain under-the-hood items (usually anything made of rubber). Mind you, this was back when the local fuel station had only one or two four-pump islands, as well as a small (two or three bays) general-service garage. The last ones I knew of were mostly Marathons, but I do know of at least one Shell in my area... I think the Shell might still be open for fuel and repairs, just not the 'full service refueling' aspect.
Now, Readers, I don't expect you to be a mechanic when you refuel. You might get a few suspicious glances if you try to do actual repair work at the pumps! Rather, my intention is to have you think like a mechanic at these times, because they are your opportunities to catch problems while they are still small. In the interest of brevity, I will simply list the tasks below. We can always discuss the impact of a given item in a future edition.
1. Grab the gas station's window squeegy, dunk it well in the cleaner, grab a few paper towels and clean:
a. front and rear windshields, door windows
b. outside mirror glass
c. lenses for ALL lights (headlights, tail/stoplights, turn signals, sidemarkers, etc)
d. license plates
NOTE: Use the towels to wipe off the squeegy's rubber blade for each pass. You may need to re-dunk the squeegy's sponge head once or twice. Be sure to clean the items in the order specified.
2. Keep those paper towels handy! Open the hood to check the following fluids. Top off as necessary.
Check these with the ENGINE OFF:
a. engine oil - weight rating and type per oil change sticker or owner's manual
b. antifreeze/coolant - 50/50 mix of correct type for your vehicle
c. power steering fluid - check your manual (or cap/dipstick) for type... some use ATF!
d. brake fluid - usually DOT 3 or DOT 4, but refer to your owner's manual to confirm
e. washer solvent - the only true 'universal fluid' for all vehicles
Check with the ENGINE ON:
f. automatic transmission fluid (IF you have a dipstick to check. Some A/T cars are coming 'sealed'.)
3. "Look over" your engine compartment (the under-the-hood area) with your eyes, ears and nose - but watch what you touch! Make note of anything that appears:
a. To be wet (from leaking/spraying fluids)
b. To be dried-out/cracked
c. To be discolored (as in burnt/charred)
d. To smell funny
e. To make odd/unusual sounds (grinding, squealing, etc,)
f. To look odd in any way
4. Close the hood, finish your fuel purchase, then do the following 'safety checks'.
a. Turn on your wiper blades and push the washer solvent button. Can you see well? If the wiper blades' rubber is torn, it's time to replace them. (Key must be at least be to 'radio on' position to do this.)
b. Turn on your headlights - first the regular ones, then the bright ones - to make sure none are burnt out. Walk around to the back to check your taillights also; they turn on with the headlight switch.
c. Turn on your hazard lights (aka "flashers"); make sure all four lights (two each on the front and the back) are working. This is a cheating way to check your turn signal bulbs, because they are the same.
d. Press your brake pedal to check the brakelights (aka stoplights). If you can't tell that they are working, ask someone nearby (a passenger in your vehicle, or even someone else pumping gas) to look for you.
5. Use the tire guage from your vehicle to measure the air pressure in all of your tires... including the spare! Compare to the standard mentioned in your owner's manual. NOTE: If you think you'll need air anyway, you can use the air guage on the air chuck to measure as well. I just prefer to know how many of my tires actually need air (and how much they need), before turning on the machine.
Well, there you have it. That is a good, basic checklist of what to do next time you are waiting for your fuel tank to fill up. Obviously, you won't check the transmission fluid until you are done refueling (when you are safe to start the auto). If you have any questions about what we covered today, please leave me a comment below.
PPM
Being in my early-to-mid-thirties, I am probably among the last of the "Gen-X'ers" to actually remember full-service gas stations. Do you remember those? Just to make sure we are on the same page, let me briefly explain.
Unlike the majority of fuel centers of today, gas stations used to be staffed with attendants who would not only pump your gas for you, but would also conduct 'courtesy services'. These extra services included more than just cleaning your windshield; the attendant would also check your fluid levels, check/adjust your tire pressure, and visually inspect certain under-the-hood items (usually anything made of rubber). Mind you, this was back when the local fuel station had only one or two four-pump islands, as well as a small (two or three bays) general-service garage. The last ones I knew of were mostly Marathons, but I do know of at least one Shell in my area... I think the Shell might still be open for fuel and repairs, just not the 'full service refueling' aspect.
Now, Readers, I don't expect you to be a mechanic when you refuel. You might get a few suspicious glances if you try to do actual repair work at the pumps! Rather, my intention is to have you think like a mechanic at these times, because they are your opportunities to catch problems while they are still small. In the interest of brevity, I will simply list the tasks below. We can always discuss the impact of a given item in a future edition.
1. Grab the gas station's window squeegy, dunk it well in the cleaner, grab a few paper towels and clean:
a. front and rear windshields, door windows
b. outside mirror glass
c. lenses for ALL lights (headlights, tail/stoplights, turn signals, sidemarkers, etc)
d. license plates
NOTE: Use the towels to wipe off the squeegy's rubber blade for each pass. You may need to re-dunk the squeegy's sponge head once or twice. Be sure to clean the items in the order specified.
2. Keep those paper towels handy! Open the hood to check the following fluids. Top off as necessary.
Check these with the ENGINE OFF:
a. engine oil - weight rating and type per oil change sticker or owner's manual
b. antifreeze/coolant - 50/50 mix of correct type for your vehicle
c. power steering fluid - check your manual (or cap/dipstick) for type... some use ATF!
d. brake fluid - usually DOT 3 or DOT 4, but refer to your owner's manual to confirm
e. washer solvent - the only true 'universal fluid' for all vehicles
Check with the ENGINE ON:
f. automatic transmission fluid (IF you have a dipstick to check. Some A/T cars are coming 'sealed'.)
3. "Look over" your engine compartment (the under-the-hood area) with your eyes, ears and nose - but watch what you touch! Make note of anything that appears:
a. To be wet (from leaking/spraying fluids)
b. To be dried-out/cracked
c. To be discolored (as in burnt/charred)
d. To smell funny
e. To make odd/unusual sounds (grinding, squealing, etc,)
f. To look odd in any way
4. Close the hood, finish your fuel purchase, then do the following 'safety checks'.
a. Turn on your wiper blades and push the washer solvent button. Can you see well? If the wiper blades' rubber is torn, it's time to replace them. (Key must be at least be to 'radio on' position to do this.)
b. Turn on your headlights - first the regular ones, then the bright ones - to make sure none are burnt out. Walk around to the back to check your taillights also; they turn on with the headlight switch.
c. Turn on your hazard lights (aka "flashers"); make sure all four lights (two each on the front and the back) are working. This is a cheating way to check your turn signal bulbs, because they are the same.
d. Press your brake pedal to check the brakelights (aka stoplights). If you can't tell that they are working, ask someone nearby (a passenger in your vehicle, or even someone else pumping gas) to look for you.
5. Use the tire guage from your vehicle to measure the air pressure in all of your tires... including the spare! Compare to the standard mentioned in your owner's manual. NOTE: If you think you'll need air anyway, you can use the air guage on the air chuck to measure as well. I just prefer to know how many of my tires actually need air (and how much they need), before turning on the machine.
Well, there you have it. That is a good, basic checklist of what to do next time you are waiting for your fuel tank to fill up. Obviously, you won't check the transmission fluid until you are done refueling (when you are safe to start the auto). If you have any questions about what we covered today, please leave me a comment below.
PPM
08 September 2011
Checklists Are Coming!
Greetings, Readers!
I have had a number of clients recently that expressed concern over not knowing what to tell the shop about their vehicle. All they know, is that their car (or truck, van, SUV, or what-have-you) "broke down" on them. When asked to give more information, they get that classic deer-in-the-headlights look. Some of them get snippy and say, "I don't know! I'm not a mechanic, else why would I be asking you for help?!" Hey, I've been in a place of frustration myself before - even recently, despite what I know! - so I know better than to take their venting personally.
So, what do I do in these situations? I pull up this 'symptom checklist' in my head, while offering a simple apology to transition the conversation. "Oh, I'm sorry, Sir/Ma'am. I believe my question didn't come across as intended. Often, people know certain quirks about their car and the way it behaves. When the car behaves differently, that 'insider knowledge' can help us to figure out what repair(s) need to be considered. I have a few questions I'd like to ask you, so we can work together to determine what you need. Would that work for you?"
At that point, I ask the relevant questions one-by-one, skipping some and inserting others as the conversation dictates. Every time I've gone through this, the client generally winds up asking if this list of questions is somewhere on the internet. I'm telling you right now, I haven't found it anywhere. Yet. I know the internet is an immense web of knowledge, so someone somewhere may have put up a similar list. Problem is, I have yet to find it... as is the case with my clients.
So, for those who have been hunting for such a checklist... you will soon find it here. I am creating it in the Google Docs cloud system, so I can share it with even more people once it is complete. I started working on the checklist this morning, but had to dash out for a few errands. I am still not ready to post it, but when I do you will find it either in the "Links" tab/page or on a separate tab/page for "Forms" (or "Documents", haven't decided on the heading just yet).
I'll be back with more soon!
PPM
I have had a number of clients recently that expressed concern over not knowing what to tell the shop about their vehicle. All they know, is that their car (or truck, van, SUV, or what-have-you) "broke down" on them. When asked to give more information, they get that classic deer-in-the-headlights look. Some of them get snippy and say, "I don't know! I'm not a mechanic, else why would I be asking you for help?!" Hey, I've been in a place of frustration myself before - even recently, despite what I know! - so I know better than to take their venting personally.
So, what do I do in these situations? I pull up this 'symptom checklist' in my head, while offering a simple apology to transition the conversation. "Oh, I'm sorry, Sir/Ma'am. I believe my question didn't come across as intended. Often, people know certain quirks about their car and the way it behaves. When the car behaves differently, that 'insider knowledge' can help us to figure out what repair(s) need to be considered. I have a few questions I'd like to ask you, so we can work together to determine what you need. Would that work for you?"
At that point, I ask the relevant questions one-by-one, skipping some and inserting others as the conversation dictates. Every time I've gone through this, the client generally winds up asking if this list of questions is somewhere on the internet. I'm telling you right now, I haven't found it anywhere. Yet. I know the internet is an immense web of knowledge, so someone somewhere may have put up a similar list. Problem is, I have yet to find it... as is the case with my clients.
So, for those who have been hunting for such a checklist... you will soon find it here. I am creating it in the Google Docs cloud system, so I can share it with even more people once it is complete. I started working on the checklist this morning, but had to dash out for a few errands. I am still not ready to post it, but when I do you will find it either in the "Links" tab/page or on a separate tab/page for "Forms" (or "Documents", haven't decided on the heading just yet).
I'll be back with more soon!
PPM
02 September 2011
Check Out the Blog Updates!
Hi there, Readers!
I just wanted to take a quick moment to point out my new pages. You probably have already noticed the 'CORE Charge & Sales Tax' tab, which was my first page addition. If you haven't read it yet, I recommend you do so soon... or even right now! The whole business of CORE charges and when they apply can be confusing (not to mention the whole sales tax discussion on that charge), so I wanted to be sure that topic had its own page here.
The 'Links of Interest' page was newly created last night. I got a great start on it, but I didn't like the way the links appeared. Then I realized I needed to brush up on my HTML code so I could have my links properly formatted. It's been a good while since I've used the code, so I was *really* jazzed when it started making sense to me again! After a few simple keystrokes, my links started behaving the way I had intended originally, and even more Link ideas occurred to me. YES!! Success!!
I hope to include even more links over this Labor Day weekend, so be sure to check back often.
Cheers,
PPM
I just wanted to take a quick moment to point out my new pages. You probably have already noticed the 'CORE Charge & Sales Tax' tab, which was my first page addition. If you haven't read it yet, I recommend you do so soon... or even right now! The whole business of CORE charges and when they apply can be confusing (not to mention the whole sales tax discussion on that charge), so I wanted to be sure that topic had its own page here.
The 'Links of Interest' page was newly created last night. I got a great start on it, but I didn't like the way the links appeared. Then I realized I needed to brush up on my HTML code so I could have my links properly formatted. It's been a good while since I've used the code, so I was *really* jazzed when it started making sense to me again! After a few simple keystrokes, my links started behaving the way I had intended originally, and even more Link ideas occurred to me. YES!! Success!!
I hope to include even more links over this Labor Day weekend, so be sure to check back often.
Cheers,
PPM
01 September 2011
Do You *Really* Want $15 Brake Pads?
Greetings, Readers!
I've bitten my tongue for long enough. [Okay, those who have read my earlier posts might chuckle at that statement...] I am going to come right out and hammer on this topic that utterly and totally confuses me. I just don't understand the logic behind it, so I want us to discuss this, and ultimately come to a consensus. Either I will convince you to see things the way I (and others in the industry) do, or one of you fine readers will have to come forward and explain the logic in thinking oppositely.
Here's the deal. I certainly understand the basic fact that the American economy generally sucks for the everyday-Joe. And - to an extent - I can appreciate the fact that there are certain cars that bring their owners such joy, usually based on status symbol-based reasons. BUT, what I don't comprehend at all, is the tendency of customers to want to splurge on everything that makes a car run... while being worse than Mr. Scrooge on everything that makes the car stop or steer correctly. The biggest mind bogglers: People driving old/older luxury brands (think of late 90's and earlier Mercedes-Benz, Volvo, etc.) but who gripe when the least expensive pads available are at least ~$40. Seriously?!
REALITY CHECK #1: An auto that will not run, will not make the news for hurting or killing anyone. An auto that will not stop or turn as the driver wishes is an accident waiting to happen; this is called 'loss of control' or 'failure to control', which is generally a citation-worthy offense (even if you manage to avoid hurting/killing anyone).
REALITY CHECK #2: Part of the status those luxury cars symbolize, is that you not only can afford *to drive* it, but that you can actually afford *to own* it - including repair costs. If you honestly think you can get by driving around in your sweet ride without any concern for true ownership... Ha! The joke will be on you when your dream of a ride literally crumbles around you.
Whether the auto you own is a "$50 beater", a new luxury masterpiece, or anything in between, I highly recommend that you completely forget about any 'low-ball' $15 or $20 brake pads you hear about. I would agree that 'something is better than nothing', but if you brakes are not road-worthy, you may as well find alternative transportation (carpool, public transportation, biking/walking, borrowing a car from a friend/family member) and save up the extra money to get something decent. You might be surprised that the next level up is only $30 to $40 (or thereabouts), which isn't a very large jump. I wouldn't trust $15 pads for any longer than one week, maybe two, depending on the application.
So, let's review:
1. Cars that won't stop are dangerous to everyone. Therefor, cheap pads = potentially expensive mess!
2. Certain autos are called 'status symbols' for a reason: they symbolize that you have the financial stature not only to drive them, but also to maintain them properly.
Now that we have cleared up that matter, please keep it in mind when learning what your latest 'ownership dues' are during your next repair scenario.
Until next time,
PPM
I've bitten my tongue for long enough. [Okay, those who have read my earlier posts might chuckle at that statement...] I am going to come right out and hammer on this topic that utterly and totally confuses me. I just don't understand the logic behind it, so I want us to discuss this, and ultimately come to a consensus. Either I will convince you to see things the way I (and others in the industry) do, or one of you fine readers will have to come forward and explain the logic in thinking oppositely.
Here's the deal. I certainly understand the basic fact that the American economy generally sucks for the everyday-Joe. And - to an extent - I can appreciate the fact that there are certain cars that bring their owners such joy, usually based on status symbol-based reasons. BUT, what I don't comprehend at all, is the tendency of customers to want to splurge on everything that makes a car run... while being worse than Mr. Scrooge on everything that makes the car stop or steer correctly. The biggest mind bogglers: People driving old/older luxury brands (think of late 90's and earlier Mercedes-Benz, Volvo, etc.) but who gripe when the least expensive pads available are at least ~$40. Seriously?!
REALITY CHECK #1: An auto that will not run, will not make the news for hurting or killing anyone. An auto that will not stop or turn as the driver wishes is an accident waiting to happen; this is called 'loss of control' or 'failure to control', which is generally a citation-worthy offense (even if you manage to avoid hurting/killing anyone).
REALITY CHECK #2: Part of the status those luxury cars symbolize, is that you not only can afford *to drive* it, but that you can actually afford *to own* it - including repair costs. If you honestly think you can get by driving around in your sweet ride without any concern for true ownership... Ha! The joke will be on you when your dream of a ride literally crumbles around you.
Whether the auto you own is a "$50 beater", a new luxury masterpiece, or anything in between, I highly recommend that you completely forget about any 'low-ball' $15 or $20 brake pads you hear about. I would agree that 'something is better than nothing', but if you brakes are not road-worthy, you may as well find alternative transportation (carpool, public transportation, biking/walking, borrowing a car from a friend/family member) and save up the extra money to get something decent. You might be surprised that the next level up is only $30 to $40 (or thereabouts), which isn't a very large jump. I wouldn't trust $15 pads for any longer than one week, maybe two, depending on the application.
So, let's review:
1. Cars that won't stop are dangerous to everyone. Therefor, cheap pads = potentially expensive mess!
2. Certain autos are called 'status symbols' for a reason: they symbolize that you have the financial stature not only to drive them, but also to maintain them properly.
Now that we have cleared up that matter, please keep it in mind when learning what your latest 'ownership dues' are during your next repair scenario.
Until next time,
PPM
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)