Happy 2012, Readers! I pray that your Christmas and New Year celebrations were filled with all of the joy (and very little of the stress and drama) that this time of year brings.
But, stress and drama may very well be lurking on your horizon, if you haven't given your vehicle its due TLC (that's "tender, loving care", not the former singing group). As this post's title states, you need to check your vehicle's battery. If the charge (power level) on it is too low, you will have some rough days ahead - in the form of 'slow starts' and eventually 'no starts'. If this is your idea of a fun adventure on a morning that you are already rushed or running late, please raise your hand. Anyone, anyone?
Even though I can't exactly see you, Readers, I'm willing to wager that not one of you raised your hand. Despite my - at times - odd sense of 'adventure', I didn't raise my hand either. I'm glad we agree! So, how do we avoid these non-adventures? You do the following three things:
1. Look up what your auto's "OE CCA" rating is. You will find this in the owner's manual, on the battery itself (hopefully it's the factory one, otherwise double-check the spec's), or at your quality parts store when they look up a replacement for you.
NOTE: The "OE" stands for "Original Equipment", or the company that made your auto (e.g. Ford, Chevrolet, Toyota, etc.). The "CCA" stands for "Cold Cranking Amps", which is the raw power capacity of a battery at 0°F.
2. Have your battery tested to verify what CCA's it is actually producing. Many businesses (repair shops, oil change outfits, parts stores, etc.) offer this service as a 'courtesy' (read: FREE) to customers, so don't be afraid to ask. Just be sure to ask them to provide you with the actual results, so you see first hand how strong or weak your battery is.
3. Compare #2's results to what your vehicle requires (from #1). You want #2 to be *significantly* HIGHER than #1... if it isn't, your battery is due to be replaced. Why? Because the current battery has become a weakling overtime, and 'Murphy's Law' will apply very soon. Picture your battery finally screaming in a Scottish brogue, "I cahn't du'it, Cahp'n... I need more power!"
If a new battery is in your near future, I want to make a very clear point on something. I know first hand what a rotten economy we still have. Money doesn't grow on trees... I get that. Which is why I want you to be sure that the battery you purchase, will actually live up to the honor of serving you the way that it should. In a nutshell: Compare the CCA of any replacement battery offered, to the OE CCA for your vehicle!
All too often, a customer will insist on getting the 'cheapest battery that will fit'. Batteries are identified by "BCI Group Code", which classifies batteries based on their footprint (length x width), height, and terminal type (top, side or 'dual' - which is a combo). So, sure a 'cheaper' version of the same battery will 'fit' - but only size-wise. Cheaper batteries have a shorter warranty period for a reason: They lack the extra power capacity that the ones with longer warranties possess. For true purchase satisfaction, make sure the BCI number *and* the CCA rating match your OE spec's!
As an aside...
No, Readers, you are not imagining things. I did manage three different movie references in this post: The title was inspired by a scene in Sister Act I. There was a nod to Ben Stein's character in Ferris Bueller's Day Off. And - of course - the trekker/trekkie in me couldn't resist the Scotty quote. :-)
Until we meet again, remember to take care of your vehicle only as well and for as long, as you want it to take care of you.
PPM
05 January 2012
21 December 2011
Un-freezing Locks & Winter Weather Tool Kit
Hello, again, Readers!
After my last post, several people I know through church gave me some really constructive feedback. They all were appreciative of the timely tips - and were surprised at how simple the tricks were to avoiding the problems we covered. But then they asked, "What about the locks?" Great question!
There are three tools you will need concerning iced-up/frozen locks: a lighter (cheap is ok), lock de-icer, and graphite lubricant (in dry powder or liquid spray can, e.g. 'Lock-Ease').
Lock already frozen? Then thaw it!
If your lock is frozen, pull out your lock de-icer chemical (it's literally about the size of a tube of lipstick) stick the tip into the key hole, and apply as directed on the package. It generally has some (isopropyl, I think) alcohol in it, which both melts the internal ice and evaporates to avoid more moisture sticking around to re-freeze.
Lock de-icer not handy? (Hmm, did you leave it *inside* the car when you parked?) Always keep a lighter on your person - yes, even if you're a non-smoker like I am - so you will always have a Plan B. Why? Well, there is this old trick of using the lighter to heat up the blade of the key, then sticking the warmed metal blade into the lock to melt the ice. There is an art to doing this, however, as great care must be taken with todays 'chipped' keys. It is far better to make several passes with a re-warmed key blade, than to over-heat the key, causing either the metal to become dis-formed or the computer chip in the key base to become overcooked.
Prevention Tool: Graphite lubricant
If your lock is frozen, pull out your lock de-icer chemical (it's literally about the size of a tube of lipstick) stick the tip into the key hole, and apply as directed on the package. It generally has some (isopropyl, I think) alcohol in it, which both melts the internal ice and evaporates to avoid more moisture sticking around to re-freeze.
Lock de-icer not handy? (Hmm, did you leave it *inside* the car when you parked?) Always keep a lighter on your person - yes, even if you're a non-smoker like I am - so you will always have a Plan B. Why? Well, there is this old trick of using the lighter to heat up the blade of the key, then sticking the warmed metal blade into the lock to melt the ice. There is an art to doing this, however, as great care must be taken with todays 'chipped' keys. It is far better to make several passes with a re-warmed key blade, than to over-heat the key, causing either the metal to become dis-formed or the computer chip in the key base to become overcooked.
Prevention Tool: Graphite lubricant
As we discussed about door hinges in the last edition, the best way to prevent icy build-up of metal-on-metal components is through proper lubrication. Locks are a little trickier, because the metal pieces needing protection are the internal 'guts' of the tumbler. In this case, graphite lubricant is the wise choice.
Graphite lubricant comes in two forms: powder (in a tube similar in size/design to the lock de-icer, above) and spray (a small can, with a spray straw). Which one you choose to use is entirely a personal preference issue. On one hand, the powder is extremely portable, fitting easily into a snack-size zip-top baggie with the lock de-icer as a traveling partner. But, if you aren't confident about how much to use - or at least, in your ability to apply it correctly - you might prefer the spray can. With the spray, the graphite lube is mixed in with a proprietary oil base that allows the lube to go everywhere it needs to go. But after the carrying liquid evaporates, the lubricant sticks around as a thin film of protection from damaging moisture.
The Tool Kit:
Here is a quick kit you can throw together in minutes, and be winter weather ready at any time.
Small, basic ice scraper - most stores have these for about $1 right now
Graphite lubricant (powder and/or spray w/ straw)
Lock De-icer
Sil-Glyde
Small, basic lighter
Clean, dry rag (a retired wash cloth or dish/hand towel would work well)
Zip top baggies, in the following sizes: snack, quarts (x2) and gallon
In the snack baggie, store the lock de-icer, graphite (powder, if you chose this) and lighter.
In the 1st quart baggie, store the ice scraper and the rag. The rag is to help brush off snow before scraping, as well as wiping off the scraper before storing in the baggie.
In the 2nd quart baggie, place the Sil-Glyde.
In the gallon baggie, place the other two baggies for portable, waterproof storage of your kit.
NOTE: If you have the spray graphite lube, it will NOT fit in the snack baggie. In this case, put it into the 2nd quart baggie, next to the Sil-Glyde.
Your kit will now readily travel in a briefcase or (regular size) handbag/purse. Just be sure to always keep your kit with you, not with your auto. They are the tools you may need to gain access to your car at any time, so leaving them inside the car would not be wise.
That covers it for this edition. If there are any topics you'd like to see covered, please let me know. Just remember: You only need to take care of your vehicle, as well as you want it to take care of you.
PPM
Graphite lubricant comes in two forms: powder (in a tube similar in size/design to the lock de-icer, above) and spray (a small can, with a spray straw). Which one you choose to use is entirely a personal preference issue. On one hand, the powder is extremely portable, fitting easily into a snack-size zip-top baggie with the lock de-icer as a traveling partner. But, if you aren't confident about how much to use - or at least, in your ability to apply it correctly - you might prefer the spray can. With the spray, the graphite lube is mixed in with a proprietary oil base that allows the lube to go everywhere it needs to go. But after the carrying liquid evaporates, the lubricant sticks around as a thin film of protection from damaging moisture.
The Tool Kit:
Here is a quick kit you can throw together in minutes, and be winter weather ready at any time.
Small, basic ice scraper - most stores have these for about $1 right now
Graphite lubricant (powder and/or spray w/ straw)
Lock De-icer
Sil-Glyde
Small, basic lighter
Clean, dry rag (a retired wash cloth or dish/hand towel would work well)
Zip top baggies, in the following sizes: snack, quarts (x2) and gallon
In the snack baggie, store the lock de-icer, graphite (powder, if you chose this) and lighter.
In the 1st quart baggie, store the ice scraper and the rag. The rag is to help brush off snow before scraping, as well as wiping off the scraper before storing in the baggie.
In the 2nd quart baggie, place the Sil-Glyde.
In the gallon baggie, place the other two baggies for portable, waterproof storage of your kit.
NOTE: If you have the spray graphite lube, it will NOT fit in the snack baggie. In this case, put it into the 2nd quart baggie, next to the Sil-Glyde.
Your kit will now readily travel in a briefcase or (regular size) handbag/purse. Just be sure to always keep your kit with you, not with your auto. They are the tools you may need to gain access to your car at any time, so leaving them inside the car would not be wise.
That covers it for this edition. If there are any topics you'd like to see covered, please let me know. Just remember: You only need to take care of your vehicle, as well as you want it to take care of you.
PPM
08 December 2011
How to Prevent 'Frozen Shut' Doors
Welcome back, Readers!
After my 'posting blitz' the week of Thanksgiving, I had to think carefully about what I would share with you next. Then a few flurries hit the Cincinnati-area, and several customers started complaining about stuck car doors (even though they were unlocked). Aha! I now had my inspiration for this next edition.
Even if you leave your vehicle's doors unlocked overnight - and I'm betting that you must *really* trust your neighborhood environment if you can do this without much concern - you may discover that you can't open the driver's door in the morning. Why? The common explanation is 'it's frozen shut'. Well, that's only half-way accurate. The door itself is not frozen, but there are two parts of it that may have icing-over issues: The hinge(s), and the seal/weatherstrip.
Here's a quick low-down on why this happens, and what you can to to prevent it.
Weatherstrip
The seals around your door (one on the door itself, one one the 'door frame') are made of rubber, right? Think of all the weather conditions they face (hottest summer heat to coldest winter temp's, plus all the rain/snow/sun). Anything made of rubber will eventually dry out, just like your skin will. Dried-out rubber no longer seals correctly, and when it gets any moisture on it, the rubber will cling onto it instead of repel it. Hey, it craves moisture! Rain/snow that is caught between the two rubber seals will create an 'ice sandwich' with them overnight, which is why you fight to open the door in the morning.
How do you prevent this? Go to your friendly neighborhood parts store (or hardware store) and get a small tube of Sil-Glyd - a 4 or 8 oz tube (like a toothpaste tube) will be good for now. Sil-Glyd is a silicone lubricant, meant especially for use on rubber pieces like weatherstripping. You can apply it by hand, put it at least on both parts of the driver's door weatherstripping, and don't be afraid to be generous. You can always wipe off any excess and use that on the next door you choose to treat. You may want to reapply the Sil-Glyd during winter, if additional coats seam to be warranted. (Winter can be more brutal in some locales than others, so use your own judgement on how often to reapply.)
NOTE: Be sure to use a clean, dry rag to wipe any moisture off the door seals first, so the lubricant has a better chance to penetrate.
Hinges
Door hinges are just as exposed to the elements as the door seals, so they are also likely to misbehave. But, hinges - and the 'pins' or bolts that are the working pivot-point on them - are made of metal, not rubber. So, a different lubricant is needed for them.
The problem solver this time: sprayable white lithium grease (or W.L.G.). It comes in both a tube (like the Sil-Glyd) and the can, but you definitely want the can. Trust me!
You may be familiar with WD40, and wonder why I recommend something else. WD40 is a good, general purpose lubricant, but it has its limitations. It is petroleum based (like fuel and oil, but more diluted), and by nature is just as likely to ice-over. I learned this one the hard way ages ago, so please learn from my mistake.
White lithium grease is (as you might guess from its name) lithium-based. I'm no chemist by any stretch, but I can tell you that greases containing lithium have a 'soap' base - check out the containers of bearing and chassis grease, which mention 'lithium #2 soap base', if you want to see for yourself. For whatever reason, the lithium-based lubricant tends to penetrate deeper, stick around longer, and repel future moisture better than the petroleum-based lubes do.
Just like with the door seals, I recommend wiping off excess moisture with a clean, dry rag before applying the W.L.G. Then, spray a generous coat on the hinges, from top to bottom. Let it set a few seconds, then swing the door back-and-forth (but not necessarily all the way closed) to let the lube work itself into the nooks and crannies. Reapply as needed, as directed on the can's instructions. Repeat process with remaining door(s)
More Helpful Hints
Since the driver's door is used the most (unless you do the climbing-over thing for random reasons), it is also the one most likely to 'stick' on you. Make sure you pretreat the seals and hinges *now*, to avoid being literally 'left out in the cold' this winter.
Remember to also treat your trunk/hatch door seals and hinges. If you need to pack up the trunk for a trip to see family and friends for Christmas, you don't want to be without easy access to your cargo area. (Or, should you get a flat tire, you would need access to your spare tire, jack and tools - which are usually in the trunk.)
Consider treating the hood latch with a generous coat of W.L.G.. The hood latch is at the very front-and-center of your vehicle, generally hiding between the 'grille' and the radiator. Think of all the weather it literally faces daily, head-first. It is the most rust-prone part on just about any vehicle on the road. Whether your car is overheating (and needs coolant), or you just want to check the fluid levels on the family van, the hood latch is your only access method to all of that. Keep it working nicely with a periodic treatment of W.L.G..
Alright, Readers, I think that should be enough for this edition. Next time we meet, I hope to bring you my own 'Winter-Weather Essentials Kit' list, maybe even with a photo. We'll see how the photo part goes.
Until next time, remember to take care of your vehicle as well as you want it to take care of you.
PPM
After my 'posting blitz' the week of Thanksgiving, I had to think carefully about what I would share with you next. Then a few flurries hit the Cincinnati-area, and several customers started complaining about stuck car doors (even though they were unlocked). Aha! I now had my inspiration for this next edition.
Even if you leave your vehicle's doors unlocked overnight - and I'm betting that you must *really* trust your neighborhood environment if you can do this without much concern - you may discover that you can't open the driver's door in the morning. Why? The common explanation is 'it's frozen shut'. Well, that's only half-way accurate. The door itself is not frozen, but there are two parts of it that may have icing-over issues: The hinge(s), and the seal/weatherstrip.
Here's a quick low-down on why this happens, and what you can to to prevent it.
Weatherstrip
The seals around your door (one on the door itself, one one the 'door frame') are made of rubber, right? Think of all the weather conditions they face (hottest summer heat to coldest winter temp's, plus all the rain/snow/sun). Anything made of rubber will eventually dry out, just like your skin will. Dried-out rubber no longer seals correctly, and when it gets any moisture on it, the rubber will cling onto it instead of repel it. Hey, it craves moisture! Rain/snow that is caught between the two rubber seals will create an 'ice sandwich' with them overnight, which is why you fight to open the door in the morning.
How do you prevent this? Go to your friendly neighborhood parts store (or hardware store) and get a small tube of Sil-Glyd - a 4 or 8 oz tube (like a toothpaste tube) will be good for now. Sil-Glyd is a silicone lubricant, meant especially for use on rubber pieces like weatherstripping. You can apply it by hand, put it at least on both parts of the driver's door weatherstripping, and don't be afraid to be generous. You can always wipe off any excess and use that on the next door you choose to treat. You may want to reapply the Sil-Glyd during winter, if additional coats seam to be warranted. (Winter can be more brutal in some locales than others, so use your own judgement on how often to reapply.)
NOTE: Be sure to use a clean, dry rag to wipe any moisture off the door seals first, so the lubricant has a better chance to penetrate.
Hinges
Door hinges are just as exposed to the elements as the door seals, so they are also likely to misbehave. But, hinges - and the 'pins' or bolts that are the working pivot-point on them - are made of metal, not rubber. So, a different lubricant is needed for them.
The problem solver this time: sprayable white lithium grease (or W.L.G.). It comes in both a tube (like the Sil-Glyd) and the can, but you definitely want the can. Trust me!
You may be familiar with WD40, and wonder why I recommend something else. WD40 is a good, general purpose lubricant, but it has its limitations. It is petroleum based (like fuel and oil, but more diluted), and by nature is just as likely to ice-over. I learned this one the hard way ages ago, so please learn from my mistake.
White lithium grease is (as you might guess from its name) lithium-based. I'm no chemist by any stretch, but I can tell you that greases containing lithium have a 'soap' base - check out the containers of bearing and chassis grease, which mention 'lithium #2 soap base', if you want to see for yourself. For whatever reason, the lithium-based lubricant tends to penetrate deeper, stick around longer, and repel future moisture better than the petroleum-based lubes do.
Just like with the door seals, I recommend wiping off excess moisture with a clean, dry rag before applying the W.L.G. Then, spray a generous coat on the hinges, from top to bottom. Let it set a few seconds, then swing the door back-and-forth (but not necessarily all the way closed) to let the lube work itself into the nooks and crannies. Reapply as needed, as directed on the can's instructions. Repeat process with remaining door(s)
More Helpful Hints
Since the driver's door is used the most (unless you do the climbing-over thing for random reasons), it is also the one most likely to 'stick' on you. Make sure you pretreat the seals and hinges *now*, to avoid being literally 'left out in the cold' this winter.
Remember to also treat your trunk/hatch door seals and hinges. If you need to pack up the trunk for a trip to see family and friends for Christmas, you don't want to be without easy access to your cargo area. (Or, should you get a flat tire, you would need access to your spare tire, jack and tools - which are usually in the trunk.)
Consider treating the hood latch with a generous coat of W.L.G.. The hood latch is at the very front-and-center of your vehicle, generally hiding between the 'grille' and the radiator. Think of all the weather it literally faces daily, head-first. It is the most rust-prone part on just about any vehicle on the road. Whether your car is overheating (and needs coolant), or you just want to check the fluid levels on the family van, the hood latch is your only access method to all of that. Keep it working nicely with a periodic treatment of W.L.G..
Alright, Readers, I think that should be enough for this edition. Next time we meet, I hope to bring you my own 'Winter-Weather Essentials Kit' list, maybe even with a photo. We'll see how the photo part goes.
Until next time, remember to take care of your vehicle as well as you want it to take care of you.
PPM
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