Welcome back, Readers.
My youngest turned 7 on Saturday, and we have reached the point where she often refuses to do something, because it is boring/stupid/hard/not any fun... yeah, you get the point. Lately, the refusal comes mostly when it is time for her to brush her teeth. I actually had to fight the urge to laugh the first few times she did that (when she was about 4 or 5). You see, I remember my younger brother choosing that very battle when we were young... actually, he was about 4 or 5 as well. And being the oldest (by about 2.5 years), I remember vividly how my parents so expertly handled it, and have used that tactic on my daughter myself. (I have tweeked it a bit, because she is more stubborn. But the idea is the same.)
Her: "Brushing my teeth is boring! I hate it!"
Me: "That's okay, Honey. Tell you what. You don't have to brush all of your teeth."
Her: "Really? Cool!"
Me: "Really. Just brush the teeth you want to keep."
Her: "Oh." *hesitates, thinking*
Me: "The grownup teeth you get, are your last teeth to use. They will have to last you for the rest of your life, until you are super-duper old. Whichever ones you want to have even then, those are the ones you want to brush."
Her: "What if I don't brush some of them?"
Me: "When your baby teeth fall out, the adult teeth grow in behind them. You already have some of these. If adult teeth aren't brushed and taken care of, they fall out too. No other teeth grow in their spots, and you can't chew as many hard or crunchy foods, because your teeth are your chewing power. Treat enough of your teeth badly, and you won't be able to eat anything crunchier than applesauce."
Her: "Oh. That's not fun at all. I think I'll go brush my teeth. All of them, so they all stick around."
Me: "That sounds like a great decision!"
Aside from gaining a new parenting tactic, you might be wondering: What does this have to do with vehicles? The answer is simple: Plenty!
Yes, doing Preventive Maintenance on your vehicle can be quite a chore. My young daughter considers certain routines - teeth brushing, room cleaning, etc. - to be quite a hassle as well. Many children share her opinion, on one responsibility or another. Heck, some of us never outgrow our aversions to certain tasks - especially cleaning!
But, what would happen if we chose *not* to do our "dreaded chores"? Laundry would pile up - either in clumps of dirty clothes, or piles/stacks of clean ones that never got put away. The dish cabinet would be empty, with its contents in the sink and on the counter - clean and dirty all mingling together. Dust and dirt would be everywhere, causing all who walked by to sneeze repeatedly. That's a disturbing thought, one that brings to mind the show "Hoarders", right?
Let's apply that thinking process to our vehicles. No one *likes* fueling up, but without fuel the auto won't go anywhere - not even to your work. Without fresh wiper blades and light bulbs, your chances of seeing and being seen are reduced greatly. Ignore servicing your brakes, and your vehicle won't stop properly for very long at all.
I could go on, but I think you get my point. Yes, keeping tabs on what services have been done and when can be quite the undertaking. In fact, I will offer suggestions on how to do exactly that with greater ease, in a future post. But one thing I want to bear in mind, is that your vehicle will exercise karma and the Golden Rule in dealing with you. So, if you want continuous, reliable service out of your auto, you must give it continuous, reliable preventive maintenance. If you choose to shirk your duties as the owner, your vehicle will eventually choose to shirk its duties in taking you where you want/need to go. Sobering thought, isn't it?
And now you have a better understanding of why I sign my posts the way I do.
Until next time, remember: Take care of your vehicle, the way you want it to take care of you!
PPM
05 January 2012
Hey, Reader... Check Your Battery!
Happy 2012, Readers! I pray that your Christmas and New Year celebrations were filled with all of the joy (and very little of the stress and drama) that this time of year brings.
But, stress and drama may very well be lurking on your horizon, if you haven't given your vehicle its due TLC (that's "tender, loving care", not the former singing group). As this post's title states, you need to check your vehicle's battery. If the charge (power level) on it is too low, you will have some rough days ahead - in the form of 'slow starts' and eventually 'no starts'. If this is your idea of a fun adventure on a morning that you are already rushed or running late, please raise your hand. Anyone, anyone?
Even though I can't exactly see you, Readers, I'm willing to wager that not one of you raised your hand. Despite my - at times - odd sense of 'adventure', I didn't raise my hand either. I'm glad we agree! So, how do we avoid these non-adventures? You do the following three things:
1. Look up what your auto's "OE CCA" rating is. You will find this in the owner's manual, on the battery itself (hopefully it's the factory one, otherwise double-check the spec's), or at your quality parts store when they look up a replacement for you.
NOTE: The "OE" stands for "Original Equipment", or the company that made your auto (e.g. Ford, Chevrolet, Toyota, etc.). The "CCA" stands for "Cold Cranking Amps", which is the raw power capacity of a battery at 0°F.
2. Have your battery tested to verify what CCA's it is actually producing. Many businesses (repair shops, oil change outfits, parts stores, etc.) offer this service as a 'courtesy' (read: FREE) to customers, so don't be afraid to ask. Just be sure to ask them to provide you with the actual results, so you see first hand how strong or weak your battery is.
3. Compare #2's results to what your vehicle requires (from #1). You want #2 to be *significantly* HIGHER than #1... if it isn't, your battery is due to be replaced. Why? Because the current battery has become a weakling overtime, and 'Murphy's Law' will apply very soon. Picture your battery finally screaming in a Scottish brogue, "I cahn't du'it, Cahp'n... I need more power!"
If a new battery is in your near future, I want to make a very clear point on something. I know first hand what a rotten economy we still have. Money doesn't grow on trees... I get that. Which is why I want you to be sure that the battery you purchase, will actually live up to the honor of serving you the way that it should. In a nutshell: Compare the CCA of any replacement battery offered, to the OE CCA for your vehicle!
All too often, a customer will insist on getting the 'cheapest battery that will fit'. Batteries are identified by "BCI Group Code", which classifies batteries based on their footprint (length x width), height, and terminal type (top, side or 'dual' - which is a combo). So, sure a 'cheaper' version of the same battery will 'fit' - but only size-wise. Cheaper batteries have a shorter warranty period for a reason: They lack the extra power capacity that the ones with longer warranties possess. For true purchase satisfaction, make sure the BCI number *and* the CCA rating match your OE spec's!
As an aside...
No, Readers, you are not imagining things. I did manage three different movie references in this post: The title was inspired by a scene in Sister Act I. There was a nod to Ben Stein's character in Ferris Bueller's Day Off. And - of course - the trekker/trekkie in me couldn't resist the Scotty quote. :-)
Until we meet again, remember to take care of your vehicle only as well and for as long, as you want it to take care of you.
PPM
But, stress and drama may very well be lurking on your horizon, if you haven't given your vehicle its due TLC (that's "tender, loving care", not the former singing group). As this post's title states, you need to check your vehicle's battery. If the charge (power level) on it is too low, you will have some rough days ahead - in the form of 'slow starts' and eventually 'no starts'. If this is your idea of a fun adventure on a morning that you are already rushed or running late, please raise your hand. Anyone, anyone?
Even though I can't exactly see you, Readers, I'm willing to wager that not one of you raised your hand. Despite my - at times - odd sense of 'adventure', I didn't raise my hand either. I'm glad we agree! So, how do we avoid these non-adventures? You do the following three things:
1. Look up what your auto's "OE CCA" rating is. You will find this in the owner's manual, on the battery itself (hopefully it's the factory one, otherwise double-check the spec's), or at your quality parts store when they look up a replacement for you.
NOTE: The "OE" stands for "Original Equipment", or the company that made your auto (e.g. Ford, Chevrolet, Toyota, etc.). The "CCA" stands for "Cold Cranking Amps", which is the raw power capacity of a battery at 0°F.
2. Have your battery tested to verify what CCA's it is actually producing. Many businesses (repair shops, oil change outfits, parts stores, etc.) offer this service as a 'courtesy' (read: FREE) to customers, so don't be afraid to ask. Just be sure to ask them to provide you with the actual results, so you see first hand how strong or weak your battery is.
3. Compare #2's results to what your vehicle requires (from #1). You want #2 to be *significantly* HIGHER than #1... if it isn't, your battery is due to be replaced. Why? Because the current battery has become a weakling overtime, and 'Murphy's Law' will apply very soon. Picture your battery finally screaming in a Scottish brogue, "I cahn't du'it, Cahp'n... I need more power!"
If a new battery is in your near future, I want to make a very clear point on something. I know first hand what a rotten economy we still have. Money doesn't grow on trees... I get that. Which is why I want you to be sure that the battery you purchase, will actually live up to the honor of serving you the way that it should. In a nutshell: Compare the CCA of any replacement battery offered, to the OE CCA for your vehicle!
All too often, a customer will insist on getting the 'cheapest battery that will fit'. Batteries are identified by "BCI Group Code", which classifies batteries based on their footprint (length x width), height, and terminal type (top, side or 'dual' - which is a combo). So, sure a 'cheaper' version of the same battery will 'fit' - but only size-wise. Cheaper batteries have a shorter warranty period for a reason: They lack the extra power capacity that the ones with longer warranties possess. For true purchase satisfaction, make sure the BCI number *and* the CCA rating match your OE spec's!
As an aside...
No, Readers, you are not imagining things. I did manage three different movie references in this post: The title was inspired by a scene in Sister Act I. There was a nod to Ben Stein's character in Ferris Bueller's Day Off. And - of course - the trekker/trekkie in me couldn't resist the Scotty quote. :-)
Until we meet again, remember to take care of your vehicle only as well and for as long, as you want it to take care of you.
PPM
21 December 2011
Un-freezing Locks & Winter Weather Tool Kit
Hello, again, Readers!
After my last post, several people I know through church gave me some really constructive feedback. They all were appreciative of the timely tips - and were surprised at how simple the tricks were to avoiding the problems we covered. But then they asked, "What about the locks?" Great question!
There are three tools you will need concerning iced-up/frozen locks: a lighter (cheap is ok), lock de-icer, and graphite lubricant (in dry powder or liquid spray can, e.g. 'Lock-Ease').
Lock already frozen? Then thaw it!
If your lock is frozen, pull out your lock de-icer chemical (it's literally about the size of a tube of lipstick) stick the tip into the key hole, and apply as directed on the package. It generally has some (isopropyl, I think) alcohol in it, which both melts the internal ice and evaporates to avoid more moisture sticking around to re-freeze.
Lock de-icer not handy? (Hmm, did you leave it *inside* the car when you parked?) Always keep a lighter on your person - yes, even if you're a non-smoker like I am - so you will always have a Plan B. Why? Well, there is this old trick of using the lighter to heat up the blade of the key, then sticking the warmed metal blade into the lock to melt the ice. There is an art to doing this, however, as great care must be taken with todays 'chipped' keys. It is far better to make several passes with a re-warmed key blade, than to over-heat the key, causing either the metal to become dis-formed or the computer chip in the key base to become overcooked.
Prevention Tool: Graphite lubricant
If your lock is frozen, pull out your lock de-icer chemical (it's literally about the size of a tube of lipstick) stick the tip into the key hole, and apply as directed on the package. It generally has some (isopropyl, I think) alcohol in it, which both melts the internal ice and evaporates to avoid more moisture sticking around to re-freeze.
Lock de-icer not handy? (Hmm, did you leave it *inside* the car when you parked?) Always keep a lighter on your person - yes, even if you're a non-smoker like I am - so you will always have a Plan B. Why? Well, there is this old trick of using the lighter to heat up the blade of the key, then sticking the warmed metal blade into the lock to melt the ice. There is an art to doing this, however, as great care must be taken with todays 'chipped' keys. It is far better to make several passes with a re-warmed key blade, than to over-heat the key, causing either the metal to become dis-formed or the computer chip in the key base to become overcooked.
Prevention Tool: Graphite lubricant
As we discussed about door hinges in the last edition, the best way to prevent icy build-up of metal-on-metal components is through proper lubrication. Locks are a little trickier, because the metal pieces needing protection are the internal 'guts' of the tumbler. In this case, graphite lubricant is the wise choice.
Graphite lubricant comes in two forms: powder (in a tube similar in size/design to the lock de-icer, above) and spray (a small can, with a spray straw). Which one you choose to use is entirely a personal preference issue. On one hand, the powder is extremely portable, fitting easily into a snack-size zip-top baggie with the lock de-icer as a traveling partner. But, if you aren't confident about how much to use - or at least, in your ability to apply it correctly - you might prefer the spray can. With the spray, the graphite lube is mixed in with a proprietary oil base that allows the lube to go everywhere it needs to go. But after the carrying liquid evaporates, the lubricant sticks around as a thin film of protection from damaging moisture.
The Tool Kit:
Here is a quick kit you can throw together in minutes, and be winter weather ready at any time.
Small, basic ice scraper - most stores have these for about $1 right now
Graphite lubricant (powder and/or spray w/ straw)
Lock De-icer
Sil-Glyde
Small, basic lighter
Clean, dry rag (a retired wash cloth or dish/hand towel would work well)
Zip top baggies, in the following sizes: snack, quarts (x2) and gallon
In the snack baggie, store the lock de-icer, graphite (powder, if you chose this) and lighter.
In the 1st quart baggie, store the ice scraper and the rag. The rag is to help brush off snow before scraping, as well as wiping off the scraper before storing in the baggie.
In the 2nd quart baggie, place the Sil-Glyde.
In the gallon baggie, place the other two baggies for portable, waterproof storage of your kit.
NOTE: If you have the spray graphite lube, it will NOT fit in the snack baggie. In this case, put it into the 2nd quart baggie, next to the Sil-Glyde.
Your kit will now readily travel in a briefcase or (regular size) handbag/purse. Just be sure to always keep your kit with you, not with your auto. They are the tools you may need to gain access to your car at any time, so leaving them inside the car would not be wise.
That covers it for this edition. If there are any topics you'd like to see covered, please let me know. Just remember: You only need to take care of your vehicle, as well as you want it to take care of you.
PPM
Graphite lubricant comes in two forms: powder (in a tube similar in size/design to the lock de-icer, above) and spray (a small can, with a spray straw). Which one you choose to use is entirely a personal preference issue. On one hand, the powder is extremely portable, fitting easily into a snack-size zip-top baggie with the lock de-icer as a traveling partner. But, if you aren't confident about how much to use - or at least, in your ability to apply it correctly - you might prefer the spray can. With the spray, the graphite lube is mixed in with a proprietary oil base that allows the lube to go everywhere it needs to go. But after the carrying liquid evaporates, the lubricant sticks around as a thin film of protection from damaging moisture.
The Tool Kit:
Here is a quick kit you can throw together in minutes, and be winter weather ready at any time.
Small, basic ice scraper - most stores have these for about $1 right now
Graphite lubricant (powder and/or spray w/ straw)
Lock De-icer
Sil-Glyde
Small, basic lighter
Clean, dry rag (a retired wash cloth or dish/hand towel would work well)
Zip top baggies, in the following sizes: snack, quarts (x2) and gallon
In the snack baggie, store the lock de-icer, graphite (powder, if you chose this) and lighter.
In the 1st quart baggie, store the ice scraper and the rag. The rag is to help brush off snow before scraping, as well as wiping off the scraper before storing in the baggie.
In the 2nd quart baggie, place the Sil-Glyde.
In the gallon baggie, place the other two baggies for portable, waterproof storage of your kit.
NOTE: If you have the spray graphite lube, it will NOT fit in the snack baggie. In this case, put it into the 2nd quart baggie, next to the Sil-Glyde.
Your kit will now readily travel in a briefcase or (regular size) handbag/purse. Just be sure to always keep your kit with you, not with your auto. They are the tools you may need to gain access to your car at any time, so leaving them inside the car would not be wise.
That covers it for this edition. If there are any topics you'd like to see covered, please let me know. Just remember: You only need to take care of your vehicle, as well as you want it to take care of you.
PPM
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