I hope all of you had a safe and fun 4th of July! With the vast majority of the USA having temperatures in (or flirting with) triple-digits, air conditioning (A/C) systems are a hot topic right now. [No pun intended.] If your vehicle's A/C system doesn't cool you off the way you think it should, then you should have it checked out, pronto!
TIME OUT!
Did my last statement put you in panic mode, as you saw a herd of dollar signs do a flash-mob fly-by? Yes, A/C service and repair *can* be very expensive. And the less you know about the topic, the easier it is for you to feel like you're being scammed. I get it! So, let me try to give you a (hopefully brief!) primer on the matter.
[Cue Zach Morris:] TIME IN!
Let's start at the very beginning... (a very fine place to start...)
A/C stands for Air *Conditioning*
The way your A/C system works:
1. Draws the (hot/warm) air already in the cabin - where the occupants are - into the A/C circuit.
2. Pushes the hot/warm air through the various hoses and 'stops', reducing the temperature and moisture as it goes.
3. Cycle the cooled-down, drier (read: conditioned) air back to the cabin, where the occupants happily reap the benefits.
"But my A/C doesn't feel very cold!"
Well, that is probably very true. So, the question is whether the problem is with the system or with your perception. Hmm...
You don't need to go to any repair shop to check this out yourself. All you need is an automotive a/c thermometer, available at most decent (and even the not-so-decent) parts stores. It will look a lot like a regular cooking thermometer (you know, the ones you use to check cooked foods for temperature doneness), though some have dials that are as big as 2" in diameter - to make it easier to read quickly. In fact, a spare cooking thermometer will work just fine. (My hubby and I have used one before ourselves, since we always have 3 or 4 on hand from his culinary days.)
What you do:
1. Take the thermometer with it's case out to your auto. Remove it from the case (storage sleeve) and slip it through the holding loop at the top.
2. Stick the probe end into one of the A/C vents. Give it a moment, then read the current temperature (which is the 'ambient' or 'room' temperature of the cabin) as reported by the thermometer.
3. Start your vehicle, turn on your A/C system to the coldest setting and on 'MAX A/C' (which is the hardest it will push the conditioned air).
4. Watch the dial on the thermometer as it moves. Depending on the status of your auto and its A/C system, you should notice a drop of between 5 and 15 degrees Fahrenheit (or maybe even more).
NOTE: Remember that a closed-up car will always get hotter than the outside air! If it's 90 outside, don't be surprised if the car is more like 100+, especially if it's been in direct sunlight. Hence all the warnings about leaving kids and/or pets in parked cars...
Question: If the local weather channel says it's 90+ outside - so, 100+ in the vehicle - do you think a 5 to 15 degree drop will be very noticeable to you?
Your A/C system is a closed circuit, designed to 'condition' the air from your (assumed to be) closed cabin. If all of your windows and doors are closed and properly sealed, then the A/C system will first work to cool the original cabin air by 5-15 degrees. Once all of that air has been circulated and 'conditioned', the system will work to cool it down by *another* 5-15 degrees.
Example:
Your parked car has a cabin temperature of 100 degrees when you get in. You crank the A/C on, which progressively conditions all of the original air down to 85 (if 15 degree drop) to 95 (5 degree drop). Once that is done - and assuming you leave the A/C on - the system will continue to work on the air for another round, drawing it down to 70 (if 15 degree drop) to 90 (5 degree drop).
Depending on the efficiency of your vehicle's system, it may take almost 2 to 3 or 4 cycles for you 'to feel the cold'. Sobering thought, right?
"Is it busted?"
That depends on what your test results showed.
If the drop was consistently 15 degrees, you simply need to adjust your perceptions, taking into account the ambient temperature and what you've learned in this article.
If the drop was consistently 5 degrees - even on the MAX A/C setting - that is a problem, but probably not a major one. You may simply need an "A/C Evac(uation) and Recharge", which I believe most shops are quoting for well under $100 out-the-door. (I heard one of the national-chain stores we service quoting $69 plus tax and shop fees.)
Now, if the poor performance was because you were *low* on refrigerant, I want you to remember something very important: The A/C system is a *closed* circuit. Therefor, being low means at least some of it leaked out. Where the leak source is, will determine how pricey the repair bill will be. But we'll discuss that in the next edition.
Alright, loyal Readers, that should be enough to get you started in the right direction. Yes, the heat and humidity can make it incredibly hard to be patient and objective, especially when you feel like screaming, "All I want is for my car to keep me cool!" It is my hope that I have given you enough information, to at least hold off on panicking until you can see if the situation truly warrants it.
Until we meet again, try to stay cool... and remember that your vehicle also deserves the Golden Rule.
PPM
P.S.: Yes, the Zach Morris mention was a "Saved by the Bell" reference. Kudos if you caught that!
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